For you guys w/Volvo drives

[Jamesbon]

Fellas,
Just out of curiosity, which "pin hole" does your drive use? (Pinhole being one of three holes in the bottom of the transom shield in which a "pin" slides through and the drive rests or locks down on that pin. This is also the same "pin" that the drive latches down on when in reverse) To minimize anymore confusion, let's refer to these pin holes as;
first hole (closest to transom)
middle hole
last hole (farthest from transom)

I'm currently using the first or hole closest to the transom. This provides great tracking but a wet hull. However I've tried the middle hole which really frees up the boat, but she feels like she's all over the place. If most of you are using the middle one, maybe I'll try that again in conjunction with a little trim tab.

BTW That spel chekker RULEZ!! No more speling like a hillbilly, trailer trash, Rednekk!!



[This message has been edited by Jamesbon (edited 11-21-2000).]

[CDMA]

Nate,

Two very different boats but I have the same results as you but with the middle and the last hole.

Chris

[BillG]

I run mine 1/8 of an inch out from the middle hole. I slotted the holes and added plates to allow adjustment, by adding holes as needed.
Bill G

[AVickers]

'76 18' Classic

Porpoising at mid-range speeds! That's what I got w/ the 2nd and 3rd holes. After she was up, I got much more speed in the 3rd hole, but it wasn't worth all the flopping around in the middle to get there... As for handling, I didn't really notice much of a difference.

I ended up running all the time in the 1rst hole -- and wishing I had trim...or trim tabs.

[CDMA]

Avickers,

I find that very interesting because I could not even run the first hole. The boat put more torgue on the steering wheel that I could hold. The second hole was perfect. Ever ever ever so slight propising at about 3200 rpm but other than that tracked straight and true. My problems don't lie in the lack of trim but the steering. However when I can find a trashed boat with an Alpha that I can take the rams and the trim pump off of I will build power trim. I think I have it figured out how to do. When I get around to it I will do mine and if it works make a retrofit kit. I want to set it up like an alpha where the rams are parallel to the drive unlike that picute of the 270 with the mercruiser rams that pops up every so often.

Chris

[boldts]

I have 69 18'Classic with the Volvo 250 drive. For skiing or Knee boarding, I run the first hole. For general crusing with the family, I run the 2nd hole. When I'm by myself, I use the 3rd hole plus washers that add about 1/8" to 3/16" more trim. I have not experienced the wild and crazy looseness that some of the rest of you have. The boat runs with about 1' to 2' of the back from the transom wet and feels like she's floating on air. With 1 to 2 ft chop on a inland lake, its a dream. I can't however throw her into a tight turn and this set-up doesn't allow the reverse to lock in. I like the idea of adding plates with more holes for adjustment as stated before. I'll have to look into that because if you move the bar instead of the drive, you can keep reverse locked. I am running a 14 1/4" dia. by 22" pitch and all the cup we could get in a stainless prop. No trim tabs.

Scott
P.S. Thank-you for the SPELL CHECK!!!

[GeneD]

I can't help but feel sorry for all you guys that are experiencing these trim problems with the Volvos. And perhaps that isn't the right way of putting it.
I can remember years ago dealing with this issue on some outboard boats my brother and I had.
(that is when him and I would pretend to be Dr. Magoon and Don Aronow)
Which hole to put the adjuster in...and so on.
The real potential of these hulls can only be realized with a trim system. I had the greatest fun with my boat when I had the Alpha One drive. The longer leg lent itself to fabulous bow trim.
(the Alpha SS does not have a lot of bow lift)
You guys would see a lot more speed and driveability with the trim ram system.
I know I'm pouring salt on the wound, and I don't mean to do that. I'm just wondering if the "bullet proof-ness" of the old Volvo drives are worth the sacrafice in speed and handling. Not to mention the effortless steering capabilities of the power steering the Mercruiser systems have built in.
Yeah, I guess you have to do a bit of give and take. But after all, don't we all want a propulsion system to be the best that it can be? Or the best that we can make it?
I've always said, and I'm not on anyones case or trying to be sarcastic in any way, but there comes a time when we all have to get into the 21st Century and do away with all the old technology.
Perfect restoration, or technology upgrade?
And I know that money plays a huge part in this decision.
I'm for a marriage of both.


------------------
GeneD
007
Melbourne, Florida

[Greg]

I have what I believe to be a '66 18 2+3 that had a 200 Volvo on it last time it ran. I always ran it in the middle hole. The front one really seemed to keep the bow down and the furthest one out really made it squirrly. I've had my Donzi since '82 and have worn out two Volvo 200's and a couple of 289s. The guys that post here are right, you can overwind them, but not forever. I am just starting my conversion to a Merc Alpha SS and a 350.

[Ralph Savarese]

I always run 3rd hole but it does have a great amount of torque steer . When I lower to the middle hole the pulling disappears but the boat is much slower.If I run the boat with a full crew of people I can run 3rd hole with no pull. I am running the inside hole on the steering arm though . I am waiting for an answer back From Chris as to the straight steering arm. Putting that on the inside hole for more steering leverage should be a big help
Ralph

[Blewbyu]

My X-18 same as Madpoodle on everything except cavitation.I don't get any of that.15X22 Spinelli Bros prop has quite a bit of cup(but only on trailing edge).Boat hooks up well under hard acceleration and airs out nicely in a chop.Steering sucks-but I'm going to engineer a rear stringer mounted cable mount this winter that should end that problem.If it turns out as well as I think it will-we'll figure out a way to mass produce and offer it on the site.

[BigGrizzly]

Hey Nate,Haven't got the envolope yet?
Answer to your question put the pin in the hole that makes the cavplate paralell to the bottom of the bottom of the hull at the stern. this will give the best ride up about 3-5 degreese will give the best speed. this works on both my boats. I also made a quick change pin so i don't have to fool with the nuts. when I put the 290 drive on the Corsican speed is the same just easier,

[green16]

Hey Guys,
Does this post apply to me or not? I've got a Volvo Penta 290 with power trim on my 16'. I've never had anyone talk to me before about choosing holes. I'm guessing you don't have power trim and I was lucky enough to buy this one with it already installed.

[boldts]

Green,
If you have power trim, you don't need any holes. Us that are using these holes do not have power trim. Which is a real shame because the boat really responds well when you get the bow up. No steering torque if you have the cavitation plate fin set-up correctly. It's like driving a boat with power steering. I like probably most other older Classic owners deal with this problem because we don't want to change the originality of the boat. So, that leaves a question, do you not put hydraulic steering on the boat for the same reason even though it is a much safer steering system? Like what was posted before and I am finally realizing it from the experienced owners at this site, original is fantastic, but if you want to really enjoy your pride and joy, UPDATE!

Scott Boldt

[BigGrizzly]

Green, I put a 290 on my Corsican, about two years ago and like it . There are no holes, you have a meter on the dash too tell you where the drive is.