PDA

View Full Version : Results are in



Cuda
08-26-2003, 08:22 AM
The machine shop just called with the evaluation of my engine I took to them.

Heads=junk
Block=Needs bored 30 over
Crank=Needs turned
Pistons=Junk
Rods=Needs reconditioned (?)

Suggestions???

I could go ahead and do the block, crank, and rods, then buy the other parts.

Look for a total replacement engine.

What's the concensus here?

Keep in mind it is a four bolt block and forged crank.

mattyboy
08-26-2003, 08:42 AM
I would look for a replacement MHO


Matty

RickR
08-26-2003, 08:49 AM
Before you do anything buy Dennis Moore's "Big Block Chevy Marine Performance"

I'd talk to the folks at "Innovation" in Sarasota.

smoothie
08-26-2003, 08:57 AM
I guess you need to ask yourself if you need 4 bolt mains and forged crank...if not buy a new short block and heads and call it a day,but if you want to build a motor what you have is a good start...BTW what kind of motor are we talking about.

BUIZILLA
08-26-2003, 09:50 AM
Cuda, I think going in I stated pretty much everything was junk. Please do not re-use anything. Not trying to be a smart a$$.

J

Cuda
08-26-2003, 11:28 AM
BUIZILLA:
Cuda, I think going in I stated pretty much everything was junk. Please do not re-use anything. Not trying to be a smart a$$.
J You were about right on your asessment. I am still thinking of going ahead and having the block bored, and the crank turned. If I have to buy pistons anyway, the bore job doesn't cost me much. I think I can do it for substantially less than $2200, besides, I think my dad is looking forward to doing one last engine together with me.

KMLFAMILY
08-26-2003, 03:34 PM
I would figure out the total machine shop bill along with the parts ahead of time.
If you do it up correctly with cam brg"s installed, rotating assy.balancing,line bored,decked,re-sizing rods, etc.. Along with heads,cam set etc. it adds up!
The upside is when it is done.You know what you have.Another thing to consider is. Was this block fresh or raw water cooled ? Is a water jacket going to rust through later on after going through all this ? It would be nice to purchase an engine with some type of warranty.

rag top man
08-26-2003, 04:00 PM
Time is money,
life is short,
for me??
I'd sell the block and crank,
buy a crate motor,
install it,
and go play, done.

Seriously, I bought a C5 corvette vert two years ago, and since then cruise the "corvetteforum" routinly, and lots of these guys are so busy putting on $300 air cleaners, coolant bypass hoses, different thermostats, and chatting on the site about which wax to use, all the while they have low miles on their car, and thats "all-good"?
I say if you ain't driving, you ain't enjoying, unless you like working on your boat, thats a different story.
(BTW 84,000 miles on the vert, and counting ;-) )

Cuda
08-26-2003, 06:22 PM
I called Dennis Moore today and ordered his book. Then I went to the machine shop to check it out for myself. I have decided to go with my original idea of using this engine. I'm going to have the cylinders honed, new cam bearings installed, new freeze plugs installed and the crank ground. I looked at the heads too. They are not that coroded. I'm going to have a valve job done and new springs installed. As for the pistons being junk, I don't know how they decided that when they hadn't even gotten them out of the hot tank! I asked why the pistons weren't any good and was told the rings are too corroded to remove without damaging the piston!??? What?????!!! I know damn well I can get the rings off without hurting the pistons. I've broken many a ring without meaning to, and have NEVER broken a piston that I was working on. Then I'll get a new cam,lifters, intake, carb and exhaust. I'm looking to make around 320 horses from it. If it pukes, I'm not really out that much anyway, and I can always do it again. As far as downtime for building, it ain't like I'm short on boats to drive! :)

Thanks for all the responses. When I recieve Moore's book, I'll probably have questions on cams, intakes, and carbs.

MOP
08-26-2003, 07:03 PM
My opinion grab a block from the junkie that has not lived in salt, use the good parts you have. Big thing with Chevy blocks is to very carefully inspect the head bolt holes in the block many time they look decent on top but have weakened due to water sneaking in the threads. Most everyone coats the bolts with the GM or equivalent sealer knowing they go into the water jackets but forget to pre-coat the threads in the block. It is extremely important in salt but a very good step to do on any Chevy rebuild.

Cuda
08-26-2003, 08:46 PM
MadPoodle:
If the block needs to go 30 over, you need new pistons.. I put my micrometer finger along the cylinders and decided it didn't need a bore. I could be wrong, heck it doesn't have any ridge at all built up. The only thing I see is surface rust that I believe will hone out. The cylinder walls show no scoring.

Dad's going there tomorrow to take a look too. I want him to talk to the guy that checked the block, since he had gone home before I got there. I have to go to Orlando in the morning, or I'd go with him.

MOP
08-27-2003, 08:08 AM
Cuda another thing to consider is the age of the block if run in salt. my rule of thumb 10 years or more don't use it for a rebuild, more than likely the salt has taken its toll.