Need a disolving rust & corrosion tip.

[harbormaster]

I have bolts on my motor mounts and manifolds that are really rusty to the point of the bolt head being almost invisible. Anyone have an amazing tip for disolving rust and loosening frozen bolts?

<small>[ March 22, 2003, 08:58 AM: Message edited by: Harbormaster ]</small>

[DON N.]

WASN'T THERE A TIP ABOUT HEATING THE BOLTS THEN PUSH MELTING AN UNLIT CANDLE ON ENCRUSTED PIECE.
WHEN THE WAX COOLS IT IS DRAWN IN THE THREADS.IF I REMEMBER RIGHT,KEEP A RAG HANDY IN CASE THE WAX STARTS TO BURN.

[DON N.]

WHEN THE NUT&BOLT ASSEMBLY COOLS THE WAX IS DRAWN IN THREADS.

[KMLFAMILY]

When you have reached that point when there is nothing left of the head of the bolt to grab onto(a 6 point metric socket or the old vise grips and heat).Your choices really become limited.
1-You can remove the head of the bolt completly(torch,whizzer)then slide part off and then remove the rest of exposed bolt.
2- If someone had access to a small portable mig welder.You could weld a nut onto the head of the deteriated bolt(this also would transfer the heat down to the threads and free them).
This is the part in the project where patience comes in.Don"t get frustrated it"s all uphill from here. :)

[mattyboy]

2 part solution
1 part liquid wrench
1 part jameson irish whiskey
apply the liquid wrench onto the rusty nut and give the irish whiskey to the nut turning the wrench :p

Matt

[David O]

Scot
As you know living near and in salt water, rust is a problem. What I use and it is by far the best product I have ever used on rust is "PB Penetrating Catalyst". All the farmers around here use it on their equipment left in the field year round. It used to be hard to find unless at farmers co-ops but now must hardware stores in this area are carrying it.
It is manufactured by B'LASTER/B.C.C.I., CLEVELAND, OHIO 1-800-858-6605
I will never go back to Liquid wrench, WD-40 etc.
Good Luck
David

[DOND]

I used a product called silikroil when I replaced the the rear leaf springs of my 1965 mustang.It is an aerosol, it foams up around the bolt head and sucks in around the threads. It worked well I do not think I could have done it without it.
Don

[Cuda]

PB Blaster works better than anything else I've used. I'll spray it with pb, beat it with a hammer, let it sit, and repeat until it comes loose. Heat will also break them loose. If the head is too corroded to hold with a six point socket, drive the next smallest socket on with a ball peen hammer. Be sure to use good quality sockets for this manuever, cheap one's will split and may shoot metal at you. Impact sockets are the best for this if there is enough room around the bolt head to get it in.

[MOP]

Hey let me put the Horse before the Cart! When you start assembling all your goodies, you may want to try something I've done I think since silicone came out. Hell Boat Life was my worst enemy! Oh well onto my thing, I go over to good grade S/S on everything I can change. I run a tap in every hole, I brush silicone lightly on all threads as I put it together. That will keep the threads from leaching in salt and locking up. The rest is proper painting, I'm picky about that. Salt water is a pain but you can keep it at bay.

[Rich]

Scot,
Make sure the part is completely secured first. You won't be able to touch it once it's hot. Wear leather gloves if necessary. Whatever your using as a wrench, make sure it's ready to go. A metric impact socket slightly smaller works great on corroded American size bolt heads.
Forget WD-40
PB Blaster and Liquid wrench work........
Let the parts soak a while...............Even overnight. Give the bolt a few good shots with a hammer. This helps break the rust bond.
Now comes the Heat.........HEAT is NEAT
Propane or Butane I don't think get hot enough. Use Acetylene. Heat the surrounding areas of the bolt you want to get out. Part of the process with the heat is to expand the area around the bolt. Get it VERY hot. Hit it again with some Liquid wrench. Heat it some more. Take your time. If you get impatient and don't heat it enough, the bolt won't come out and the head will snap off. Now your hot............
OK...turn off the torch before you put it down.
Wrench away..............
Some things just won't come apart. I had to use a die grinder to cut a set of exhaust manifolds off and then used the above method to get the remaining studs out of the heads.
B O A T
Break Out Another Thousand

Good Luck

<small>[ March 24, 2003, 03:11 PM: Message edited by: Rich ]</small>

[Forrest]

. . . and the harbormaster probably knows, for safety sake, what ever you do, don't use a torch or a welder under the hatch in your Donzi.

[MOP]

Be super careful of using high heat on cast iron unless you heat a large area slowly, it sure likes to crack when heated in a concentrated area. A lot of times you have to center punch and drill the heads off manifold bolts if you can't get them moving. Even then it can be a bugger on the long shank bolts. you may need to break out the oak wedges!!!

[CDMA]

I have found Kroil penetrating oil to work the best in my experience.

Chris

Been well rusted before...no longer :)

[harbormaster]

KROIL is what riverrat and I used to break the bolts loose.