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Bandit
05-16-2000, 11:27 AM
As part of my spring dusting on the Donzi, I took 2 Holley 600's to have new kits put in them and when I reinstalled, the starboard runs perfect but the port flooded out at idle. Both ran decently last year but I had some back firing out of the hole and lots of carbon buildup inside the bowls.

I took it back two more times and I've had the same results. The guy working on them has been in the business +30 years and he's provided reliable work in the past.

His final conclusion is that there must be an internal crack which is causing it to flood out.

I decided to take it out for a spin yesterday and try to blow it out. After a 30 min. thrill ride I idled back down and it did not flood out. Well, I thought that did the trick but after 4-5 min. idling it flooded.

If it is a crack, could it have expanded as the engine heated and therefore it worked OK for a few minutes before it cooled back down?

My only other option at this point is to buy another carb unless somebody has some good advise?

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Bandit...

RickR,GroveCity
05-16-2000, 11:34 AM
bandit
I have heard of people having idle problems from using the wrong power valve.

Have you checked you timing and vaccum?

My 420hp/454 fouled plugs until I set the base timing at 18 degrees. That would be way too much for a stock SBC but you might try around 12 degrees and see what happens (that setting will give you too much total advance so make sure you run 93 octane and don't run too long at WOT. http://206.150.187.82/ubb/eek.gif

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RickR mailto:riggerb@aol.comriggerb@aol.com</A>

[This message has been edited by RickR,GroveCity (edited 05-16-2000).]

RickSE
05-16-2000, 01:38 PM
Did they replace your needle(s) and seat(s) when the carb was rebuilt? Is this a 4160 or 4150 Holley? I know on the model 4150's, the generic Holley needle(s) and seat(s) have a tendency to stick open or pit when they sit for long periods of time. Mine always used to stick open and flood the carb until I switched to a set of premium (alcohol) needle(s) and seat(s). This could be your problem but I'd think the guy doing the rebuild would have replaced them.

Bandit
05-16-2000, 01:59 PM
I was informed by the guy doing them that he ordered the original replacement kit and everything was changed...some parts 3 times.

He told me that if I find another used carb to bring it to him and he would switch over the new kit in my current carb for free. That's how sure he is that the specs and parts are right.

What puzzles me is the other carb that he rebuilt works perfect!

I'm not sure the exact # of carb and I'm out of town until next weekend to check.

He rebuilt 2 carbs for my houseboat last spring and once I slapped them on and primed a little, they worked like new and I've not had any problems out of them since.

I guess next weekend I could switch the good carb to the port engine and see if I have the same problem. That would eliminate any other problems, such as, timing, vaccum, etc.

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Bandit...

klink
05-16-2000, 11:07 PM
My holly did this and I had the wrong primary metering block gasket in it, some hollys use a fuel transfer tube from the pump that is sealed with o rings and others have a flat transfer surface. If the gasket with the cut out for the tube is used on the flat surface metering block the vacume chamber that operates the power valve will not seal and the power valve will stay open and cause flooding.
I'm guessing that a bad o ring on the transfer tube or a pluged airway to the power valve vacume chamber would do the same.
You might check to see if pump nozzle check valve works some kits replace these with a lighter valve or ball that don't work so well.
Can you look down the carb while iddling and see where the xtra fuel is coming from, venturis or pump nozzle.
Hope these ideas help....Dave

GeneD
05-17-2000, 08:06 AM
I like the idea of swapping the carbs. Then have a **** fit on your carb guy.

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GeneD
007
Melbourne, Florida

AVickers
05-17-2000, 08:25 AM
Check your fuel pressure. I had a pump diaphram get hard over the winter once and it began delivering about 11 psi instead of the more normal 4-6 psi.

Boat would start and run fine for a bit and then flood out. Ran OK at WOT, but as soon as I idled down, it would flood again. (Made docking a bitch...)

Switching carbs would be my first step though... If the problem moves to the other engine, it's the carb. If it stays w/ the same engine, it's something else...like the pump.

Bandit
05-17-2000, 12:30 PM
So it sounds like to me that you guys aren't buying the internal crack theory.

Since the boat does run, I don't want to tinker with it too much since the Big Memorial Day Weekend is quickly approaching.

I cann't imagine being dry docked and not out on the water in my Donzi sipping a beer on M-Day Weekend watching all the babes in the bikinis...



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Bandit...

PaulO
05-17-2000, 12:48 PM
Sip enough beer and everyones a babe in a bikini!!!