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harbormaster
04-20-2000, 06:39 AM
I want to put up some new "how-to's" in the Technical section. This is your chance to be famous!
I would like to get articles from you Guys and Gals on:
1. Donzi Prop selection(this would probably need lots of inputs.)
2. Mercruiser outdrive yearly maintainance
3. Volvo outDrive yearly Maintenance
4. A description of Mercuiser outdrive models and features/pros/cons of each. (might take more than one person for inputs)
5. A description of Volvo outdrive models and features/pros/cons of each. (might take more than one person for inputs)

I asked for things like this about 3 months ago and no one came through. Lets do it this time. Share your knowledge. I will post the articles for comments and addtions from the peanut gallery and when most of us are in agreement of the final product I put it in the tech section.

Scot
"The Harbormaster"

GEOO
04-20-2000, 01:46 PM
Scot, I don't know who offered to do an article on Props??? Should we start a Prop posting string. Boat, engine ,rpm, prop, speed & type (GPS, speedo, radar)..GEOO

harbormaster
04-25-2000, 07:09 PM
Thought I would bring this topic up again

Heh Heh Heh

Rob
04-25-2000, 10:27 PM
I can probably do an article on a fuel tank swap on a 16. Unless anybody else wants to that is...

Forrest
04-27-2000, 08:37 AM
Scott here is one courtesy of Aftermarket Mairne (http://www.amarket.com/)

MERCRUISER EASY SHIFT SWITCH ADJUSTMENT

1)The symptoms for easy shift problems are as follows:

2)The boat kills when shifted into gear.

3)The boat has no neutral, when you try to shift to neutral it fights you and passes from fwd to rev or rev to fwd.

4)#2 is a symptom of a sticking shift cable or a sticking shift arm and roller on the upper shift shaft.

5)The mere fact that it is killing the engine proves that the switch is good, it is working at the wrong time(going in gear).

6)The purpose of the switch is to kill the engine for a fraction of a second to release the gears.

7)The gears in the outdrive are undercut so once together they stick together if their is a prop load(in the water)

8)When the forward cable tries to move the lower shift cable it fights the action and is felt as a resistance on the shift handle.

9)Pressure on the lower shift cable shifts the arm that trips the easy shift switch, thus the engine starts to die.

10)One second later during the lapse in h.p. the gears let go, then the switch resets and the engine regains power.

11)The whole process takes only a second and the engine recovers with only a hesitation, which you hear(whooomp)

12)To test the switch first you jump across the wires going to the switch, if engine dies the circuit is good.

13)Now test if the switch will kill the engine, Press the arm of the switch and roller inward, engine dies if switch is good.

14)Now test when the switch kills the engine, Press the shift actuating arm to either side, roller rises up engine dies.

15)It is important where the switch starts. It should kill when the roller is 1/8" out of the valley of the arm.

16)If it trips lower it will trip at the wrong time , If it goes too high it won't work.

17)To adjust the position of the killing switch slightly bend the roller arm. In makes it kill earlier-out later. Retest.

18)It is important that the cables do not restrict the shift process, be sure the barrell under the cotter pin is free.

19)Be sure the three nuts that hold the cables down are not tight, just past the lock on the nuts,

20)Be sure the spring loaded plate that trips the switch if free and center springloaded.

21)If the plate is free to move and spring back to the center and the switch trips at 1/8" idle under 1000rpm , It will Shift.




[This message has been edited by Forrest (edited 04-27-2000).]