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View Full Version : NO OIL PRESSURE WHY MEEEE



kevin
04-04-2000, 09:59 PM
Z-BOP WAS BACK TOGETHER READY TO GO TRY TO START NO START TIMEING CHAIN HAD JUMPED A TOOTH NOW BACK TOGETHER AGAIN TRY TO START NO OIL PRESSURE THOUGHT IT WAS BAD HOOKUP ON NEW GRAFFIG GAUGE BUT NO CHECK OIL FILTER NO OIL IM SICK WHAT TO DO NOW

harbormaster
04-05-2000, 06:56 AM
Did you prime your oil pump before putting it on?

Another thing that I always do before firing a new engine is get a long metal rod and cut a notch in the bottom that allows it to fit into the oil pump.

I pull the distributor and insert the rod down into the oil pump.

Then put an electric drill ( an air impact works better) on the other end and spin the rod.

This will circulate the oil throughout the engine oil passages.

GeneD
04-05-2000, 07:21 AM
Kevin,
I'm just a wee bit concerned about your grammar, but that is another story!
I had a similar problem last year. New engine, and the oil pressure would continue to drop throughtout the day, until I had none. I couldn't figure it out.
Then someone had a brilliant suggestion...the sendor. At the time, I was thinking, "Yeah, right...it can't be the sendor because, well...just because."
Well, that is exactly what it was. I guess getting kicked around the shop caused it to screw up or something and the damn thing stoppped working. (new engine didn't come with one, I had to use the 14 year old sendor)
Now, does your engine make noises like it is low on oil? If not, maybe you DO have oil pressure.
With respect to the Harbormaster, an unprimed oil pump will not cause permanent and longterm oil pressure loss in a properly prepared motor. Only short term pressure loss. Of course, there are exceptions, and you may be one of them. If the motor was over revved right away - dry...you may be screwed, but it has been my experience that even blown out bearings will still hold oil pressure to some degree.
I urge you to check your sendor before you start freaking out.
Also, there are other possibilites. How far down did you take the motor? IF the motor was boiled out, there are a few oil passage plugs that would have been removed. On Chevys there are plugs front and rear of the block. On Fords, (correct me if I'm wrong) there are plugs on the front of the motor, by the timing chain. If any of these have been removed and not replaced, a severe loss of oil pressure would be experienced. Damage to the motor would be minimal, I've seen it happen only last month to my buddy's Mustang Cobra. He was a bit embarrassed since he was the one to remove the plugs and forgot to put them back.

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GeneD
007
Melbourne, Florida

Forrest
04-05-2000, 09:05 AM
Gene, is that what you call a run-on sentence? Kevin, your timing chain jumped a tooth? How worn out is that puppy? Timing chains just don't jump a tooth unless there is a lot of slop in the chain and wear on the sprockets. Anyway, the harbormaster is correct - you should prime that hammer-knocker and look for full oil pressure BEFORE you crank the engine with the starter for the first time. If you don't feel like making your own primeing shaft, go to any decent speed shop and purchase one for about $15. Also, you shoud always fill the oil filter with oil prior to installing it as well. One other thing that can cause a low, or even a no oil pressure reading, is teflon tape or other thread sealer on the electric sender's threads. Install it dry without sealer. If you've checked all of this and still wonder if your oil-pressure gauge is not telling you the full story, pick up and old-style mechinical "wet" oil-pressure gauge and thread it in where your present electric sender is installed now. The wet gauge will tell the truth. Good Luck.

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Forrest

kevin
04-05-2000, 12:37 PM
OK, OK, I HAVE CALMED DOWN NOW. The engine is in great shape. The chain had to much play, when I first started the engine it backfired through the carb. This is when it slipped. The sending unit has been checked, the engine was not taken apart, just a new intake installed. Compression is good. As far as filling the oil filter thats great except for where this one is located. The water pump lines make it a task just to replace an empty filter. I do have a tool to prime the oil pump but this should not have to be done, it is the same pump, the oil pan has not been removed. The only other thing I can think of is something stuck in the pump, maybe with the drill I can free whatever obstruction might be in the pump. (right) Thanks for the ideas....

Frank Civitano
04-05-2000, 07:02 PM
Kevin
Start yor engine and check your dip stick if your oil has climbed up a Ouart or higher then the the full mark, You have oil pressure. Check your sender or gauge,, If not make sure when you jumped timing a Piece of metal didn't get in your pan and took out your pump?

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Frank Civitano

Jeff M
04-05-2000, 09:11 PM
Kevin:

To confirm pressure, remove the sending unit and crank the engine. If you have pressure oil will hit the celing in your garage. You should not have to prime the pump if all you did was r & r the intake. ALSO.....I am concerned about the timing chain. I hope you spent the 50 bucks to replace the chain AND GEARS when you were in there! I also doubt your engine is in the shape you think it is if the chain was worn enough to jump.

Good luck,
Jeff

kevin
04-05-2000, 09:46 PM
Oil pressure is back. Im not sure what is going on. I did take the sending unit out and crank the engine, no pressure. The oil filter was empty after starting the engine, no oil pressure. After primeing the pump I replaced the distributor, removed sparkplugs and turned the engine over, (no oil pressure) With a drill I could build up 40lbs. pressure with no problem. The only thing that I can come up with is possibly the rod going to the oil pump was somehow either pulling out of the pump when I removed the distibutor and not getting in place when I replaced the distributor. That is the only possible answer to have pressure with a drill but not with the distributor installed. As far as engine condition maybe it is in need of an overhaul. I purchased the boat last year and ran all season with out a problem, compression is good, no oil consumption, starts right off the bat and runs as strong as any 302 Ive been in. I did replace the timeing chain while I had the front off the engine as well as water pump, impeller in other water pump, dist. cap points, condenser, accel super coil, plug wires, plugs, rear output shaft bearing, u-joints, intake, all hoses, belts, wireing, bildge pump and blower, fuel tank, fuel lines, steering wheel, guages, add added a foot throttle. I also had just about any un painted part on the boat powder coated.It the engine is wore out so be it. There is always next winter, Im ready to go boating.

harbormaster
04-06-2000, 09:54 AM
Kevin, Do you have a Holley carb on that engine?

If you backfired through the carb you might have wasted your carb's idle valve.

Holleys are bad about that.

GeneD
04-06-2000, 12:01 PM
Kevin,
Welcome to the Twilight Zone.

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GeneD
007
Melbourne, Florida

kevin
04-06-2000, 02:44 PM
Yes, I have a 600cfm single line that I purchased new last year. It is a marine carb. And yes it did backfire through the carb several times. Can you tell me more on how to check for this problem?

AVickers
04-06-2000, 03:49 PM
Actually, the backfire will occasionally break the diaphram in the power valve. This is the little device that screws into the float backing plate (opposite the bowl) and adds more fuel when vacuum falls off under acceleration load. Essentially, it richens the mixture to provide more fuel when the engine loads up. Most of them are single stage, but they also make a double-stage power valve. In any case, they either work or, with a ruptured diaphram, they don't.

If the diaphram is broken, the engine will idle VERY rich, if at all. If your engine is idling ok, then the power valve is fine.

klink
04-06-2000, 08:49 PM
kevin, the drive shaft between distributor and oil pump is warn on the end or the receiver on the distributor is rounded off.
Ive seen this in a caddi where the stock oil pump drive was too short and only ran on about 1\8" the replacemeny part was almost 1\2" longer, it might be posible that the new intake gasket has lifted the manifold and dist. making less contact between the pump drive shaft and a warn dist. resulting in rounding it off.
Good luck
Klink

Rob
04-06-2000, 10:32 PM
Kevin:

302 Ford, right? This engine has a hexagon shaped oil pump drive shaft, not a round rod with a slot. I have never seen one wear to the point it would not drive the pump. However I have seen many that were twisted up like a barber pole after one of those umbrella valve stems seals gets hard, breaks off and ends up between the gears of the oil pump.

Are you sure you are getting the shaft engaged into the socket on the top of the pump as well as the end of the distributor? I know this sounds pretty basic, but it's the only other thing I can think of.



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Rob

kevin
04-07-2000, 03:03 PM
ROB YOU ARE CORRECT I THINK THAT WAS THE PROBLEM. I THINK WHEN I PULLED THE DIST. OUT IT PULLED THE ROD UP AND OUT OF THE PUMP. BUT ITS WORKING NOW . WHERE IS LAKE

LATAWANA MO AT IM FROM JEFFERSON CITY. DO YOU EVER BOAT ON LAKE OF THE OZARKS?

Rob
04-11-2000, 09:34 PM
Kevin:

Lake Lotawana is about 7-8 East of Lee's Summit, just North of 50 highway. It's a small lake, about 650 acres. But perfect for my 71-16'.

I did take the boat to the Ozarks once last year. We had a load of fun, but as I'm sure you are aware, anything shorter than 27' is a pretty rough ride unless you take it pretty slow. Especially on the weekends. I've wondered if it doesn't get a lot smoother if you go far enough down some of the arms. We'll probably go back again this summer for a few days.

I actually saw another Donzi 16 while we were there. It was pulling out of Shooter's 21 as we were pulling in.

Glad you got the oil pumping again. That must have been a pretty good scare!