buying 22 info

[pokster]

I'm new to the site, and love all the info on classics'. I want to buy a 22 classic, I would like your opions on different years and drives. I know to stay away from 454/alf, but beyond that everyone has a different opion. I'm leaning toward a early 90's boat with a 454/king cobra. I live in Wisconsin and everyone is vary pro merc a outside opion would be nice.

[Donzigo]

Welcome to the site, Polkster. You'lll get lots of answers.

I would say that although the Cobra drive is a good drive, getting parts might become an issue with it.

You can't go wrong with a 454/merc package.

Richard

[goatee]

95' or newer, (look up donzi ownership) stay with merc. bravo1, 502 efi. anyone with a 22 who doesnt have this package,,,,wishes they do!
but, thats just my opinion

[MOP]

Hi and welcome aboard, choices can be hard. I agree with the Alpha thing. But don't rule out any of the others, including the King's they don't break. Parts are a liittle hard to find but they are out there, props are another story. Stock stuff is around but limited selection, enough to keep most happy. If you just want a really good boat and will not get into the preformance rush it should fill the bill very well. Any boat that you do settle on have it surveyed inclusive of oil samples and compression tests, which will keep your hand out of your pocket a little longer. To me the 22 is the Gentlemans sport boat, it is one of the slicker ones. Good luck in you hunt!!!!

[MOP]

Do a search on www.boattraderonline.com (http://www.boattraderonline.com) and www.yachtworld.com (http://www.yachtworld.com) there seem to be some decent ones out there.

[Dr. Dan]

:cool: Welcome...Pokster! I have a 1993 22 Classic King Cobra...we have had zero complaints on its performance...I too was curious about overall performance and reliability issues! Currently there are some regular members here who also have essentially the same combo(Dork,Mark Albers,Poodle & Co.,and Genuine Trouble...which is a 454 King wedged into a serious 18 Classic)
Parts have really not been an issue for several reasons....there are many resources for them, and mostly...you do not need parts if it does not break! Ya gotta maintain it, and doing radical operations in any boat is going to put your drive system in harms way...it has taken us 2 solid seasons of pretty active runnin....to get to where we are looking to eventually do a full repower....that has nothing to do with our current package. The problem with this group of owners is that everyone of us should have the last name of "Jones"....cuz we are always tryin to out do each other....in a healthy performance and functional Classical Beauty and Style kinda way! Welcome aboard....Good Luck in your search...there are alot out there...check out some of the nice ones for sale in our Donzi For Sale Section.... wink ...Doc

[Fish boy]

Hey Pokster,
weclome to the donzi registry. Good choice with the 22, it is a really fantastic performing boat. As far as the power package, you are right the alpha is probably not beefy enough to be the best choice for the 454. I also agree with some of the above that the King Cobra package is a good reliable set up, however, if give the choice between the two, I would take the mercury package without hesitation.

I would also look at the older Donzi's without a bit of concern. My Brother, mother, father, and I each have mid/late 80's donzis and could not be any happier with them. There are several donzi's on this registry from the 60's and 70's that are better than new. Just take MOP's advice and get the survey. Good luck,

Fish

[BUIZILLA]

Buy Jerry Eisele's boat.

J

[ITTLFLI]

I agree!! Take a look at Jerry Eisele's boat! It is almost identicle to the new one Magic Float just ordered! That is a nice price on it too!

To address the alpha question: I agree it wouldn't be my first choice for a drive. But you will pay a lot more for a bravo boat. I personally have a 454/alpha combo and it has performed flawlessly!

question to everyone: Who here has owned, or known someone, that has broken a properly maintained alpha on a 22 classic?

[Fish boy]

Ittlfli,
99% sure Budmann broke the Alpha on his 22. He is still using an alpha though. He is very careful accelerating, but after that it is good to go. He can tell you a little more than I can about it.

[RickR]

I had a friend go through 3 Alphas on a Minx but he was running a 502 with a lot of power :rolleyes: Finally switched to a Bravo and never had any more problems as far as I know.

[pokster]

ok; so how do I go about getting a boat "surveyed" I've looked at some boats and found the side stringers pulling up from the hull and have found stress cracks on the hull under the engine mounts, would a surveier find more?

Is a OMC to a new volvo/penta a easyer swap than going to a merc.

I don't plan on using the boat for speed. nothing personal to others, but there are easier (cheaper) ways to fast on the water. Try hard water boating for some real speed

[need for speed]

i also have the 93 omc 454 , great motor and drive no problems. No problem getting parts!

[need for speed]

i also have the 93 omc 454 , great motor and drive no problems. No problem getting parts!

[olredalert]

------Welcome to the world of DONZI.I see you are from Wisconsin.My partner in my race car is at the Milwaukee Auto Auction every Wednesday,and today a 1998 22 Classic went thru.White and turquoise.It was clean and 454 powered.Not sure if it sold or not.My partner said it was a friend of his and he would check it out further.Guy said he needed $22,000.
------If you have any interest just yell.I think I would just as soon have Jerrys too,however!..........Bill S!

[DAULEY]

welcome aboard what part of wisconsin are you from i live in lake geneva and merc is the way to go because most marinas work on mercs and cobras are hard to find anyone in these parts to work on them
good luck in your search
bob

[MOP]

Being in the boat selling Biz a survey is very important. It is a little hard getting surveyors to do the smaller boats. But anyhow they will find wet areas with the infamous Moisture Meter, they will tap all over the hull looking for Delam, and check all the safety items, wiring, hoses etc. Most of which most a competent boat Mech can do. But the Rub is most insurance companies require a survey, but they only require a value and safety inspection which will cost about ½ to 2/3 of the cost of a real bonafide survey. I look at it as cheap insurance and peace of mind. I myself surveyed for six years for the company I worked for. The guy should spend about 2-1/2 hours, crawl or wiggle into any accessible areas to look at as much as possible and be real busy the hole time if he is worth his salt. You have to expect to pay $12-15 a foot. An most of all again do not buy any engine with out sea trial, compression test, cooling system pressure on F/W setup, very carefully running you hand over the oil pan, any roughness or small bumps usually indicate rust, "OIL SAMPLES engine and drive" which tell you a ton more than any other one test. I have had several engines that passed with flying colors all the other tests and came up real bad in the oil. You and a Buddy should look at this stuff first, oil pressure dead cold, hot, WOT, hot idle after run. Get a flex neck mirror, flash light and a good tube 12 volt flourescent light which gives great soft but bright light and will not blind you, get an eye on every thing, crawl in where you can, shine the light in tight places, don't just look over "stare" at stuff for a minute, you would be surprised how even the trained professionals miss stuff. Look carefully for leaks and at corroded stuff, look what may have caused a bilge stain, Check hoses, belts, pulleys for rust and wobble, a lot of belt dust might mean new ones. Evidence of fresh grease here and there and on fittings, clean bilges and engine compartment, neat and well secured wiring, fuel lines, etc.(shows as keeping up with things). The drive look for cracks, leaks, dents, trim rams and hoses, bellows, general visual condition. Pull the bottom plug(may need impact driver & Hammer) you should not see junk on the magnet or funny smokey colored oil, check steering for play, at wheel, wheel turn distance to drive movement(some power steering systems will have more play not running), tiller arm on drive A big screw driver to pry just a tad more than gently up and down smoothness from end to end with and again without the engine running, hold it firmly full port, ahead and starboard and have a Bud shake the drive, at the ends there should be very little play When you think its good then spend the $$$!!! AND the surveyor should do all of the above and a little more like heat gun everything on that engine immediately after a hard run. Voltage checks(quite a few places), continuity checks (drive and it attachments and to the engine block. There is More but I'm tired!

Also(BE THERE) for the survey watch but don't bug him but do ask a lot at the end, you should get a very detailed written report. Make sure he is a member of: NAMS or SAMS there are other groups but these are the most accredited and accepted by the companies.

P.S. 4 Bombay Sapphires! I should hit the rack!

[Barry Phillips]

Welcome Pokster, If you find a clean 454 boat make sure it's a Mag, a 502 is better but harder to come by, and not much difference in performace maybe 2-3mph. The newer mags were 375 hp and I have heard of a 360. Stay away from the small block and 310hp 454 22s real slugs and difficult to hop up. The 454 mag and the 502 have a stronger bottom end than the 310. and the small blocks just dosn't have the tork to move that much boat. Don't even think about an Alfa drive. If you look at an OMC boat check the build quality really closely. I have seen OMC 16 and18s without lifting rings, just cleats. Once I saw a 16 with some really bad hull problems. The OMC years were not the best of times for Donzi. I think the 454 mag is the most common motor you will find in a 22 because thats the way dealers ordered them. Ditto for the 496 Mag verses the 496 HO, 2mph difference in top end and dealers do not feel it's worth the extra cost. Just stay from the 310hp 454 or a small block and you will be OK. Good luck.

SO-SLO

[Barry Phillips]

Welcome Pokster, If you find a clean 454 boat make sure it's a Mag, a 502 is better but harder to come by, and not much difference in performace maybe 2-3mph. The newer mags were 375 hp and I have heard of a 360. Stay away from the small block and 310hp 454 22s real slugs and difficult to hop up. The 454 mag and the 502 have a stronger bottom end than the 310. and the small blocks just dosn't have the tork to move that much boat. Don't even think about an Alfa drive. If you look at an OMC boat check the build quality really closely. I have seen OMC 16 and18s without lifting rings, just cleats. Once I saw a 16 with some really bad hull problems. The OMC years were not the best of times for Donzi. I think the 454 mag is the most common motor you will find in a 22 because thats the way dealers ordered them. Ditto for the 496 Mag verses the 496 HO, 2mph difference in top end and dealers do not feel it's worth the extra cost. Just stay from the 310hp 454 or a small block and you will be OK. Good luck.

SO-SLO

[pokster]

To Dauley, boat sounds nice, but that more than I have to spend, I work in Milwakee, and I spent a weekend or two this winter on your lake. Are you going to be in Milwakee for the boat races?

Thanks To all for all of the info, It will make my search easier.

[newbie-n-TX]

I'm new here as well. Also interested in a Classic. Just wanted to say thanks to MOP, Barry and others as well for the great info.

I'm glad I found this site!

[Fish boy]

Welcome to the boards newbie in TX. DOnt be shy about asking questions, as you have already seen, there is a wealth of knowledge here and a lot of really helpful people.

[True Blue]

This was a very informative thread. I may be looking at a boat out of state and will need a good surveyor in the Chicago Illinois area.
Thanks