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View Full Version : 327 bored .060, 20,000 babied miles



oldLenny
05-12-2003, 01:57 PM
I know NOTHING about anything that has to do with engines/drives etc. A question for the motor guys.

My brother-in-law has offered me a 327, bored .060 over, RPM intake, Holley 670, MSD ign, SR Torquer Heads (2.02 etc, double bump copies), steel crank and rods. It has NOT been abused but has occasionally been run up to the limiter at 6500 rpm. Seldomly. He wants to know if I would want it for one of my "boats" and says I can have it for $2500 Can ($1600US). It is complete from top to bottom and is a bolt in to a car right now and turn the key. He has bought a big block for for '67 Chevelle and taken this out. He has over $6K CAN into it. It was dynoed at 375 HP and 380 Ft Lbs torque.

How hard is it to find exhaust for this?

How hard and how much to marine-ize it?

Will it bolt up to a transom assembly commonly available?

What should I look out for?

It has iron heads.

I am awaiting the cam duration specs.

Should I run away from this?
What was the basis of a 327, is it a regular 350 small block casting?
Bore and stroke, does it share anything with the 350?

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I know nothing here...just that it is a runner and been looked after. Motor is about 3 years old in total from its' beginning.

MOP
05-12-2003, 02:10 PM
Exhaust is no problem, deciding which set up thats another thing. You should fresh water cool it, I would still put brass casting plugs in the block, as long as it has a real good paint job rust can be held in check. The cam may be a problem with reversion, get the specs and post them one of the other guys should be able to tell you if its Ok. Yes fits all the questions it will bolt in, F/W for the aluminum manifold and better running plus longer life protected from corrosion.

Rootsy
05-12-2003, 03:00 PM
the 327 is a little winder... 4 inch bore x 3.25 stroke and it is built on the same principle as the 350 but does not use a 350 block since it predates the 350 by a few years. This motor uses a 5.7 inch rod but was offered with 2 different crank / rod journal sizes dependant upon year of manufacture. the earlier motors were small journal and the later share the 350 size. all 327's were 2 piece rear main seal motors. heads, intakes, front covers, valvetrains, etc etc all bolt up to the 327 from a 350..

standard mercruiser and aftermarket sbc exhaust will bolt on directly.

sbc merc bellhousing will bolt to block, earlier style 2 piece rear main seal coupler should bolt to flywheel / crankshaft studs. old style (large diameter housing) starter for smaller flywheel required.

hypereutectic or forged pistons preferably and check bore to piston clearance because it differs for each type (hyper vs forged). gap your top rings @ 0.022 inches (unless you want em to grow and butt together and go kaboom), second @ 0.016 - 0.018. the top ring gap is important in a marine motor due to the stress that they are continually run under. bearing (main / rod) clearances should run about .002 - .0025 inches.

i wouldn't spin that motor over 6K continually unless she has a steel crank, tougher rods and balanced rotating assy. 2 Bolt mains are fine for our HP ranges. i would want a HV oil pump with an ARP driveshaft just for piece of mind... and she will need a windage tray.

for the rpms we run continually i feel that at a bare minimum roller tip rockers are a wise investment to reduce valve guide wear. make sure you have enough valve spring for that camshaft at high rpm

in the US at least you will need to replace the MSD dist. with a marine version (MSD pro billet marine) which is vented and uses a sealed cap. probably end up recurving the distributor also (springs and weights).

the holley will need to be modified at a bare minimum with J-tube vent tubes to spew the fuel into the carb in case of a flood, baffles in the fuel bowls and spring loaded needles and seats. you will also end up recalibrating due to the constant load boats run under vs a car which only sees heavy load upon acceleration and climbing, etc. you will WANT vacuum secondaries...

i don;t have a warm fuzzy with an aluminum intake in a salt water environment...

and then there is all that little nit picky stuff... do i want this do i want that, etc etc.

i reckon i can think of more just give me a bit...

oldLenny
05-12-2003, 03:05 PM
Steel crank and rods, waiting on duration still. Yes, balanced.

You mean I will have to take the HEADS OFF???? eek! eek! eek! ...did I mention I don't do motors?

MOP
05-12-2003, 03:34 PM
Rootsy don't scare him, I got a hunch if his brother in law spent 6k it more than likely has most of the right stuff. Lenny get Rootsy a list of internals he will know the right answers. I'm stale on alot of this stuff.

BERTRAM BOY
05-12-2003, 04:10 PM
Lenny,
Also, find out what the static compression ratio is. I AssUme that you will be running gasoline that you get at a marina, which in most areas means only 89 octane at max.

BERTRAM BOY :D :D :D

Just 2 more cents

oldLenny
05-12-2003, 05:24 PM
aaaahhh. the plot thickens.
I have the build sheet now. Here goes.

Cast crank and rods (2 bolt) eek!
Cast Pistons... eek!
Rods re-sized
ARP rod bolts
.010, .010 on crank and rods

all balanced


Bore is .060 over, so whats the displacement now?

Rings .016-.018

Compression is 9.7:1 Runs on regular in a car here but he uses premium

Competition Cams #275 dual energy
duration at .050, 219 intake, 229 exhaust, .462-.482
60 degree overlap

Competition Cams roller tip rockers

Crane Push rods

World Products SR 67cc Torquer heads

Performer dual plane intake

Holley 670

MSD

$1600 US. ($2500 Can$)

MOP
05-12-2003, 07:23 PM
No offense Lenny but it would make a great boat hauler motor, the pistons and compression would worry me. Marine gas does not have the best name for consistancy. Plus no mention of the bearings, for marine there is a need for real high quality bearings. Cast cranks are not that bad but will not hold a candle to forged one. One of the more up to date guys can give you a read on that cam.

oldLenny
05-12-2003, 11:27 PM
Thanks all for your replies, both on and offline. I am going to pass on this thing. Leave it for a car...extra thanks to Jamie...

Love this place! :D

MOP
05-13-2003, 07:36 AM
Lenny there was a post back a bit about 350's there was a 290hp that was right at 2k. I forget who was offering them.

BUIZILLA
05-13-2003, 07:51 AM
There is NO reason that engine can't be used in a boat. It's a VERY mild cam setup...

A .030 + 327 is a 331, and a .060 is a 334-335 incher.

Neat combo for a 16' or 18' actually.

J

ITTLFLI
05-13-2003, 08:43 AM
That is a heck of a buy on a nice little package for a 16 or 18. Honestly...what percentage of the time are you going to be running over 4000 rpm? I have run cast pistons and crank for over 100 hours at 5000rpms 75% of the time!! Tore it down and it looked great!

DON'T PASS UP THIS MOTOR!!

BRIAN73
05-13-2003, 09:02 AM
Lenny,

The .060 overbore scares me. Not a hell of alot of meat left.


Brian

Walt. H.
05-13-2003, 09:13 AM
Cast iron cranks and 2-bolt mains are just fine for any engine running uder 5,500 rpm's.
This was noted also in a performance marine book I just currently read.
~~~~~~~~~ Refering to HP.Books ~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~Small Block chevy Marine Performance~~~~~
By Dennis Moore

Lenny, My jaw is still dragging the floor after seeing your creation, Wow what a beaut!!!

Walt.......

oldLenny
05-13-2003, 11:07 AM
I bailed on it this morning due to,

cast crank and rods
cast pistons, not hyper or forged.
2 bolt mains
the need for a marine alternator
the need for a small marine starter
the need for fresh water cooling
the need for .022 upper ring gaps and it has .016
the need for stainless head gaskets
the need for a new oil pan and stick
the need to marinize the Holley
the need to get rid of the MSD

I feel I could get a bit closer to a better built marine engine for the same kind of dough. This was just a "nice" little package to throw into Scots old 16 and the price was right. Seems like the price isn't once all this stuff is "fixed".

Keep in mind we pay about $11KUS here for a NEW 350 Mag MPI and Alpha on a skid...$12.5US for a new 6.2 MX MPI Horizon(320hp) and Bravo1...Thanks all.

ITTLFLI
05-13-2003, 01:35 PM
Good luck!

MOP
05-13-2003, 06:34 PM
Scull Duggery a Foot! Lenny why can't a US member buy a motor for you and ship it over to as maybe sauna rocks or some other benign heavy thing.

oldLenny
05-13-2003, 06:52 PM
The only way it "works" is if I have it installed by a registered Mercruiser dealer here and decide to sell the boat to you. Yes, an old Bayliner with a new 496HO has crossed my mind a few times. It is legal. A motor alone will end up not being covered by warranty in the US and the dealer that sold the motor is toast. Nothing wrong with selling you a boat and motor tho...and visa versa...

Keep in mind, we buy most of our pleasure(lake) boats from you guys in the mid-west and Georgia and Fla. They are new, have new powerpacks etc. But, we can not buy a bare hull from you and rig it here and then sell it there as new. But we can rig a new boat here, and export it there, and sell it there through a dealer.... wink

MOP
05-13-2003, 07:29 PM
Technically would it not be a used motor if resold by an individual not a dealer? We could dirty one up and ship it off as a junk yard Dog!