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mattyboy
09-18-2001, 07:20 AM
I've done outboards, not inboards or I/O

I know to drain lower unit, but do I replace fill/drain screw? do I refill with oil or leave drained? do I leave the drive up?

how do I insure I get all the water out of the block?

Do I top off the fuel tank or try and leave it as empty as possible?

I was told to run the engine and spray fogging oil into the carb?

what do you do to trim tabs??

I know you guys have all the info
Boldts didn't you say that you have always done yours.

1968 16 351h/m 250 outdrive,water pickup in the bottom of the boat
Thanx again
Matt
just closed the pool,gonna have to pull the boat soon. :( :( :o

Rich
09-18-2001, 07:55 AM
Matt.......
Try this http://www.brownsmarina.on.ca/tech-winter-inboard.html :D

Tony
09-18-2001, 11:12 AM
I'm no expert, but here's what I've picked up...mostly from this site:
I change the lower unit lube, making sure it is pure with no whitish color. No need to leave it drained, it is ready to go in the spring. Likewise, I change the oil.

Leave the lower unit in the down position, all weight is where it is best supported, with no distortion of the bellows, etc.

Find and open all the pet cocks on the exhaust system, drain, then close. Then pull apart the inlet hose to the exhaust system and, with engine running, pour in a couple gallons of antifreeze, the environmental friendly kind. Near the end of that I fog the carb with fogging oil and shut 'er down.

Repack your trailer bearings, you don't want water sitting in them all winter.
No need to do anything to your tabs, as far as I know.

Mixed opinions on the fuel tank...for the last couple years I left mine low with a can of stabilizer in it. This year I think I am going to leave it full, with a can of stabilizer, thinking this will reduce condensation. Who knows?

Also, if you do a search, there are several older threads that discussed this topic...for us in the great white north who have to worry about it!

GOOD LUCK! :)

RedDog
09-18-2001, 01:23 PM
This will be my first with other than an OB as well - this is what I have picked up as the steps:

Winter Shutdown
When you fill with antifreeze
Fill block through large hose at thermostat housing
Oil and power steering cooler and seawater pump through sea water hose (the one with the copper adapter) antifreeze will run out of seawater pump (On back side of drive)
Manifolds and risers through 2 small hoses connected to thermostat housing (antifreeze will run out of tail pipes)
Store with the bow UP and the drive down. Best bet may be some kind of tarp over the stern and drive, do not cover the whole boat (water will condense under the cover)
Grease gimbal
Grease steering cable
Change oil
Change outdrive lube
Add Sta-bil at the last outing
Drain fuel bowl
Warm up and fog
Drain manifolds (4 drains each), Block (drain each side), Oil cooler (2 drains)
Remove drain screw on drive water pump. Blow out hoses with air.
Remove large hose on engine water pump and drain.
Fill block and manifolds with antifreeze (Drain and save in spring for next season
Need approximately 8 gallons antifreeze - use full strength
Loosen belts (tighten in spring)
Spray engine with CRC 656 (clean and re-spray in Spring)
http://donzi.net/photos/flag.jpg

boxy
09-18-2001, 01:54 PM
Madpoodle, GeneD, Forrest

You guys are slipping, usually every year when this post topic resurfaces, it takes you about 10 minutes to post the typical Southern Florida helpful hints.
You know, they go something like this..
Hint # 1 - when boating in the winter, replace short sleeve Donzi T with long sleeve Donzi T.
:D :D :D

mattyboy
09-18-2001, 03:52 PM
Yeah Boxy,
I was waiting for our southern brothers to
send the sunshine digs???you now
once the boat is on the trailer head south,,,
and so on...wear pants not shorts.....
so let's hear em guys
Matt
south of Boxy,and way north of Madpoodle.

boldts
09-18-2001, 05:49 PM
Matty,

Here is what I've learned over the years and have done for the last 15 years with no problems so far. I'm waiting until after the Sarasota meet this year, but since my birthday is in Sept, I usually save some money by not renewing the trailer registration. When you renew in the Spring, it only cost half price. Just a tip for those of you with a late season birthday.

1. I run the boat on a fresh water lake for about 15 to 20 minutes to clean everything out and to be sure the engine is warm when I fog the engine.

2. I bring oil recycle containers to the lake with me so that I can drain the oils while it is hot. If you do not have a hose with a brass cap on the end threaded into your oil pan, I highly recommend one. It is so easy to place this hose out the boat's drain plug hole to drain the oil.

3. I drain the outdrive and check for water in the oil. If you see a milky white substance in the oil, you have a water leak somewhere.

4. In the engine compartment, I loosen and disconnect all water hoses. I check them for weakness and replace over the winter. I even unbolt my exhaust manifolds and make sure all water is out of them. This is probably not necessary except that mine are original H/M aluminum pieces and I don't remove the drain plugs because of the age and not wanting to strip the threads. This winter is a check the water pump impeller year. I will be disconnecting my water pump and even if it doesn't need a new impeller, I will replace it. (Preventive Maintance)

5. Here is the one difference from what everyone else has said that I do differently. I leave all fluids except oil out of my block. I have never filled the engine with antifreeze. The professional marina did not do it, so I never have. Once I get home from the lake, I use straight 30 weight oil in the engine along with of course a new oil filter. My Volvo 250 drive also uses this oil in it. I fill the drive to recommended levels as long as no water was found in the drive and it is stored in the down position.

6. I have always used WD40 when I spay down the engine for storage, but I'll give the CRC a try this year since you all highly recommend it. All steering grease fittings are given a couple squirts.

7. My last stop on the way home from the lake is the gas station. I make sure my boat is full of high test for 2 reasons. 1st - no air space in the tank does not allow condensation to form. A can of Stor-N-Start or any like gas stabalizer is added before filling the tank. 2nd - most important for me since my boat stays indoors during the winter is that a full tank is less likely to ignight. At least that is what I've been told.

8. I do not keep the boat covered, but like I said, it stays indoors. I do how-ever pull the interior cushions and bucket seats out and store in a warm closet in the house. This encourages me to get into cleaning them before the Spring thaw.

I noticed there was a step to empty the bowls of the carb. I've not done this in the past, but maybe I should. I've not had a problem with starting the engine in the spring. By the way, the fuel filter gets replaced over the winter also along with any belts showing wear. I usually repack the trailer wheel bearings early in the winter lay-up also just in case water as found it's way into the bearing cavity. Again, since the boat is kept indoors, the wheel bearings are not exposed to freezing temps. That about does it for me. I may have forgot something, if so, let me know. Your never to old to learn. That is what I enjoy most about this web site. :)

Forrest
09-19-2001, 09:21 AM
Steve, you took the words right out of my mouth! But really, it does get cold here in North Florida. Every now and then in the dead of winter, you will actually see some ice on the ground in the mornings. But that's why I have a Donzi jacket! Anyway, I will usually drain the raw water out of the block and manifolds or heat exchanger in January and start running fuel stabilizer in November. I'm usually out of the boat for at least three to four months out of the year up here. Hay, it snowed here and stuck to the ground back in 1980. I-10 was totally shut down and we were socked in with 1/2" of snow! It could happen again! :eek:

mattyboy
09-19-2001, 02:24 PM
thanks guys,
for all the info,
Boldts are h/m parts that hard to find?? I have the same setup has yours,wish I had a dig cam :o
Madpoodle just finished the review for Camp Donzi in the camp grounds of america, nice pics, do they have an owners weekend?? four stars says the critics
must be some place ;) ny times " a must see"
Matt :p