Stripped oil pan drain.

[penbroke]

What is your favorite fix for stripped threads in the oil pan drain hole? The threads from the oil pan came out along with the drain plug. I guess the last guy didn't know his own strength. (Maybe that's why he sold the boat)

It is an aluminum pan with the drain facing straight down. There is about 6" below to the hull.

It's ironic since I was going to install a drain hose coupling to eliminate the removal of the drain plug just to prevent this from happening.

If anybody has any clever ideas I would love to hear them.

Thanks,
Frank

[Donzigo]

Had the same thing happen to a previous boat, years ago.

The good news is: You're gonna love your new oil pan!

The bad news: You're gonna have that engine out to get it!

Tip: Dont' buy a used one. Tried that too.

If anybody could help you, it would be MadPoodle. I'd do whatever he says; but, I personally think the engine has to come out.

[Forrest]

Yea, take the engine out. It's not as big of a job as you might think. If it's a cast aluminum oil pan, you can probably have the hole rethreaded to the next NPT size and insert a brass bushing to match it down to the original size so it will fit your drain hose. For a temporary fix in order to use the boat this weekend, you can always get one of those rubber one-size-fits-all oil-pan plugs as seen in the finer chain auto supplys.

[Cuda]

Back in my younger days one of my first cars had a stripped oil pan plug. I used one of the rubber gadgets and I don't remember it ever leaking again. I can't remember just how it worked, but I would give it a try, then replace the pan the next time you have to pull the engine. Check it often if you use the plug.

[Jamesbon]

I think someone makes an oversized plug. Simply screw into (mash) the old hole. Maybe not the best fix, but sure beats removing the engine. My buddy used one on his Vette, worked fine.

[KMLFAMILY]

There is also a self tapping bushing with a removable brass plug sold at some auto parts stores.Down side is the plug is small so it takes a while to drain.

[MOP]

Take the plug down to the auto parts store, buy an oversized self tapping one and a gallon of cheap thin oil and a couple of quarts of Kero. The trick is to apply enough pressure to the plug while turning it to get it started. As you start to tap the threads have a buddie slowly pour the oil through and continue till you screw the plug out, with 6 inches you should be able to catch it in a shallow pan. When done pour about 2 quarts of Kero through that should take car of the rest debris. Now take a narrow strip of nice cotten and stuff it up into the hole this will wick out the rest of the oil into the catch pan (this takes awhile leave it over night). Swab the hole with acetone to clean the threads thouroughly then use you sealer of choice and put your new fitting in. I have done this a ton of times on all types of pans with excellent results.

[penbroke]

I was able to find a self tapping oversize drain plug with a 1/8" NPT plug threaded into it. I put some grease in the thread cutting slots and on the end of the self tapping plug to catch the chips and was able to thread it right in. I went about 3/4 of a turn at a time then backed it out to remove the chips and grease, re-grease and continue. It worked pretty well but it was tough to get it started square.

After cleaning everything up and seating the new plug I installed a brass 1/8" NPT elbow and 1/4" NPT stopcock valve with reducing bushing and a plug.

To drain the oil I can remove the plug, attach a barbed hose fitting and run the hose out thru the boat drain hole to a catch pan, then open the valve. It will be slow with the small pipe fittings but it beats draining the oil in the bilge and I don't have to disturb the fitting in the oil pan.

I also drilled a hole in the handle of the valve for safety wire.

Thanks for all the input,
Frank