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View Full Version : Is my Gelcoat too far gone?



Stix Magill
12-24-2001, 09:35 AM
The picture attached is not my boat although I do have a black Minx, but represents my faded gelcoat well. Mine is not quite as bad but getting there. Is this a candidate for a "wet sand" and if so what are the detailed methods? Feel free to recommend a book or manual if one exists. I am going to replace the seats this spring and I would like the boat to look worthy.

May you all have a wonderful Holiday Season!

Scott Smith http://stixmagill.homestead.com/files/mp-blackminx.jpg

Rob
12-24-2001, 01:38 PM
Try a polisher with machine rubbing compound on a small area first. If that does not bring the color back, then wet sand lightly with 600 or 800 grit. Once the color returns, move to progressively finer grades of paper, then rubbing compound, and finally a good swirl remover like Meguiars.

Be very careful sanding or polishing around corners or edges as it is very easy to sand or polish through the gelcoat in these areas.

DonziDreamin
12-24-2001, 02:29 PM
Rubbing Cmpound will do wonders, just wash it before and wax after.

CDMA
12-24-2001, 10:36 PM
Perfect canidate for wet sanding.

600 grit
800
1000
1500
( use a soft to medium density sanding block and lots of lots of water)

3M heavy duty compound
3M finesse-it compound
Wax

Chris

JP BRESCIA
12-25-2001, 07:03 AM
Exactly how Chris detailed the process. I used the same process and it turned out great. My fading was worse than that picture but it took alot of patience.

Stix Magill
12-25-2001, 11:17 AM
Thanks fellas! I will take before and after photos for you.

Merry Christmas! :)

David O
12-25-2001, 04:48 PM
Scott
3M has a published procedure to follow on using their products for all stages of faded gelcoat. I used their procedure along with the products they recommended and restored a 1972 light blue laser sailboat to like new condition. This boat had been stored out in the sun for 15 to 20 years. I was totally amazed. I did experiment with a small area first and found I needed to start with a courser grit paper then they recommended I start with but then worked my way up through their procedure with wonderful results. Their products do work.
David

smokediver
12-25-2001, 05:29 PM
If you are going to wet sand consider getting a jitterbug sander, it will make the job a lot easier. I would go down to an automotive refinish supplier and talk to them. Take your boat along and someone will know just what you need. Remember to start light and work toward the heaviest grit in the beginning.Black is a tough color but you will be amazed at what you can do with the right tools. They make sand paper to 3000 grit but if it were me i would start with 800 and go heavier if need be. Take one area and go through the whole process wet sand rubbing compound polishing compound machine glaze and then wax. I am a big fan of the 3m line. I would use ppg drx25 polishing compond with an untwisted wool pad after super duty rubbing compound follow that with perfect it 3 machine glaze using a black foam waffle pad ( i think it is 3m part # 5725) then wax of your choice. hope this helps.

Sam
12-25-2001, 07:20 PM
Scott, dido's on the 3-M procedure and their products. I rubbed my red ( kinda pink at the time ) 16 out last year with very good results. I am planing on a wet sand job this winter/spring. I have the gloss but I hope to be rid of all the little imperfections. Let's keep in touch and maybe we can bounce things off each other. One thing for sure you will need a good quality buffer. I paid $225.00 for a variable speed Makita, it is the best tool purchase I ever made.

Sam

Looped
12-25-2001, 08:25 PM
Stix,

Like mentioned above stick to a small area at first especially an inconspicuous area like down by the water line of the transom to see how well it will come out at first. Plus pick up one of those Makita veritable polishers too because they can do wonders, I have one and I even do my oak floors in my house with the thing (the Wife thinks I’m freakin nuts). The only thing is you may need to buff it a few times a year depending on how far gone it is.

Craig

Voodoocanoe
12-25-2001, 08:45 PM
I had a black boat for 7yrs and by far they are the most difficult to keep from fading.
Once you get that shine back always keep the boat indoors if possible, Or at least keep it completely covered and it will not fade nearly as fast.

smokediver
12-26-2001, 05:30 AM
I almost forgot. The Dewalt dtw 849 polisher is an excellent tool as well. they are on sale right now for 235.00 and it comes with a velcro backing plate and 3 pads of your choice.

Stix Magill
12-29-2001, 09:56 AM
Alright, I just ordered a Dewalt polisher. If anyone could recommend a good supplier of the 3M products, I would appreciate it. They don't have a dealer listing on the website and my local yocal suppliers are worthless when it comes to service. I'm sure there are some guys down in Florida with plenty of the compounds, etc. on the shelf.

All you help is greatly appreciated! My Donzi will shine once more!! :D

David O
12-29-2001, 10:12 AM
Scott
Most West Marine, Boat US, Boater World all carry the 3M products. You may need to mail order. Also try the auto body paint shops.
where are you in Alabama? Yellow Creek is near where?
David

Stix Magill
12-29-2001, 10:38 AM
Thanks David. I will go with one of those by mail order. Finding the tools is half the battle! This area needs a good boating supply store. If there is one around, I've not found it.
My summer home is at Yellow Creek, the largest slew on Bankhead Lake (uppermost reservoir ot the Warrior River). The area is north of Tuscaloosa (home) and west of Birmingham. Emmo is up river from me and I can't wait to meet up him at the river honkey-tonk this spring to do some Donzi cruising!

Do you boat nearby?

Thanks for the info!

Scott :)

Stix Magill
12-30-2001, 11:02 AM
David,

I see you are in Florida, but if you're ever passing through, stop for a ride in the Minx.

I would love to get a copy of the 3M procedure that you mentioned. I will request one from West Marine. What is the name of it? Also, did you do your sanding with a Dewalt or similar polisher, or will I need a dedicated sander like the "Jitterbug" mention above? How long did the whole procedure take?

Thanks,

Scott Smith

BigGrizzly
12-30-2001, 03:36 PM
Ask Ted aka HP500, I saw an example of him bringing a red 18 back from the dead.

Randy

marcdups
12-30-2001, 07:30 PM
Scott, yes the 3M products are excellent, time matters on how well you want to do it, foremost the vessel needs to be washed after each coat is applied, ie, compound, finesse, swirl remover, wax, It will look great, wax often as gel is porous like skin and the more lotion you can give it the better. my .02 $$.

Marc

Elbow grease has SOOOOOOO many meanings :eek: :eek:

Sam
01-01-2002, 11:44 AM
For you guys that have gone through the whole process from start to finish did you sand by hand or machine. If you used a sander can you make any recommendations. I am experimenting with my engine hatch cover but I still have some fine scratches. I not sure which sanding step I am lacking in. I was wondering if a sander will give me a more uniform finish.

Sam

David O
01-01-2002, 01:54 PM
Scott and Sam I did all my sanding by hand and with rubber sanding blocks. All the wet sanding was by hand with plenty of water, infact a little soap in the water helps. It is very important to keep the area you are sanding and the paper flushed with water. On areas where you can't use the blocks you must be careful to use proper hand sanding so as not to leave finger streaks. I only used the variable speed polishers or sanders to do the buffing and polishing. I used the pads recommended by 3M for which ever compound I was using. The machine I used was either a Rockwell,Delta or Porta Cable.
Scott I have e-mailed 3M asking for a copy of their procedure, will forward it when and if I receive it.
From start to finish it seems I spent about 4 hours per foot. that was on a Laser sailboard so it was the bottom only. On a Donzis freeboards it will be twice the amount of area. THERE IS NO FAST WAY TO DO IT RIGHT. Lots of elbow grease.
David

Stix Magill
01-01-2002, 06:10 PM
Thanks for all the help guys. I have my shopping list for supplies and will order them tomorrow. Wish me luck! I will document the entire process with pics for sharing when I'm done.

Happy New Year!

Scott Smith

Gearhead99
01-01-2002, 06:23 PM
You don't want to use a sander. It has to be done with feel.

The machine might rub right through the Gel Coat. Then you have a problem.

Use lots of water, some soap and I also prefer rubber sanding blocks and squeeges.

It takes TIME...lots of TIME

David O
01-07-2002, 06:34 PM
Scott
I finally heard from 3M and this was their reply.
It's still not the procedure I am looking for but maybe they don't print it anymore because of liability (who knows)
anyway here it is.

Thank you for your inquiry regarding 3M Marine Trades Products.
To remove light to medium oxidation, to clean and polish the surface, you
would want to try our Finesse-it(TM) II Finishing Material P.N. 05928.

To remove heavy oxidation, chalking, fading, minor scratches, rust and
exhaust stains, you can use our Marine High Gloss Gelcoat Compound P.N.
06025 or Super Duty Rubbing Compound P.N. 05954.

After compounding, you should follow-up with either our Marine Protective
Liquid or Marine Ultra Performance Paste Wax. IF you need further
assistance, please contact us.


3M Marine Trades Department
http://www.mmm.com/marine
marine@mmm.com
1-877-366-2746

smokediver
01-07-2002, 07:40 PM
stix, after compounding, you will have swirls and the wax will not remove them. follow up with ppg dxr25 polishing compound . then wax. dont forget to use breathing protection as the compound has silica crystaline (carcinogenic) 3m 7192med. 7193 large. I did a job on a dark green 44 hinckley talaria ( they are painted) and it came out nice using the steps i've mentioned.