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Craig
04-24-2003, 11:49 AM
Posted several months ago inquiring about vibration problem. M.O.P. , A. Vickers and some others gave some good stuff that I've kept and am considering, but I think I may not have described the problem exactly accurately.

The Bell Housing bearing (s) were cited as possible problem and I haven't pulled the drive yet to see if they're messed up yet (will soon) HOWEVER, I would like to add to my problem description the following observation and see what direction I can get:

I went ahead and started it on the trailer a couple days ago and there is a noise (and vibration) that gets more noticeable as I raise the drive (270 with electric tilt). It is almost not noticeable when its down, but it was last year when underway.

I was wondering, in addition to the bell housing bearings, how commonly do the bearings in the bearing assembly that is actually in the upper gear housing fail??

Appreciate the previous info. given (see post "Older Volvo (270) mechanics in Maryland???" if interested) and there's no need to re-write all that, but I think I just decribed it before as a "vibration" underway which led to some thoughts about bent props or prop-shafts. This post is to clarify the noise is there when idling with the drive tilted up and in neutral.

As always, I appreciate any input.

mattyboy
04-24-2003, 12:00 PM
Craig,
I'm not a real engine guru but I was told with the Volvo never run them with the drive up puts unnecessary wear and tear on the u joints in the drive.

Matt

Craig
04-24-2003, 12:10 PM
Matt,

That seems reasonable just due to the angle vs straight but then on the other hand I thought that was the whole idea of the benefits of trim and tilt.

To clarify further, I'm just talking about raising even slightly upward from the "locked down" position, the noise gets progressively worse.

I was pretty sure (even from what I've read here on this site) Volvo intended for the 270's tilt to allow you to run in shallow water at very very slow speed.

mattyboy
04-24-2003, 12:36 PM
Craig, there is a difference between tilt and trim,
the tilt mechanism on the 270 is to get it on the trailer then strapped up the worm gear doesn't hold any weight so a bump( on the road or a wake jump or even if the drive raises up after hitting reverse when it comes back down it will push the worm gear back down ) will knock it down to the locked posistion, the 280t or 290 have trim and can be trimmed in low water situations.
It could be the u joints themselves???
some one here has the answer

Matt

Craig
04-24-2003, 12:57 PM
Matt - I know tilt / trim difference. I just meant that you can run very (very very) slowly using the tilt mechanism (according to some earlier posts -- also, just verified looking in my Clymer's manual, -- regarding tilt: "...this permits the stern drive to be raised when traveling through shallow water at slow speed or when trailering boat..."). I've had the old 270 for 18 yrs. ;last replaced the U-joints a couple of years ago, though I've been told that it could be the U-joints again. I am inclined to think it is the bell housing bearings as suggested in the previously referenced post, but was just looking for more opinions. Will know when I remove the drive and have a look, but was also curious about the possiblity of wear to the bearings in the upper gear housing causing the noise (maybe even partly) (i.e. maybe they need work too).

Danny
04-24-2003, 04:51 PM
Tilting the drive is going to put stress on the u-joints as well as the bearings on the intermediate shaft(the shaft in the bell housing)so if either is bad the noise will increase as you trim it up. A stethoscope is agood way to try and diagnose the bearing on the intermediate shaft.When you take the drive off you are still not going to tell much unless the bearings are almost falling apart. There is a seal on the end of the shaft that protects those bearings, if that seal goes then you get problems with that bearing. Some bell housings had grease fittings for that shaft but you have to be careful not to overgrease and push the seal out. Most bell housing don't have grease fittings and therefore that shaft and those bearings haven't been greased since they were installed. The bad news is that to change the bearings and the seals on the intermediate shaft you have to remove the engine.
Did that last year on the 270 in the 67 16 and doing it later this month on the 280 in the 73 GT. If and when you do it install grease fittings.
Danny

boatnut
04-24-2003, 05:23 PM
Also check the bellows carefully when you tear things apart. A wear spot or tear in the bellows will allow water into this area and accelerate bearing or u-joint problems. In my '67, the u-joints went out and then caused bearing failure
(at least it seemed that way at the time). Ed

MOP
04-24-2003, 05:27 PM
Craig if you are pulling the drive why not do the bearings and the U joints. It will ad a few bucks to the bill, but piece of mind is priceless. I believe in bearings U joints every 300 hours on stock stuff. My rig only had about 100 hours when I got it, I still changed the bearing and inspected the U joint as best you can without knocking it apart. I have a slight noise in tight turns and high trim at the end of this season I'll change it out. My season is usually 10-15 hours, its a bi--h working 7 days during the summer. This year I will rack some hours up at the 1000 island Gig in JULY. Hope to get puking drunk with some of my Donzi Buds!

BigGrizzly
04-24-2003, 06:18 PM
Graig, I had the same thing but mine was causeed by starting it with the drive up. It took out the universal carrier and one universal,

Donzified
04-24-2003, 06:28 PM
My bet is on the U- joint.I say this because the noise increases as you trim. The U-joint, if worn would make a similar noise if in gear and on a sharp turn.

Andy knuth
04-24-2003, 08:48 PM
Craig I had the same problem with my 67 270 drive 10 yearsago when I bought it .THE bearing in the upper housing were so badly out of shim I was surprised there wasn't teeth missing on the gears,last mechanic was a butcher,any way there was no noticeable vibration change untill Ichanged the output shaft bearings with sealed ones,no greasing them,that was 10 years ago.Ipulled the motor in the fall and there still good.AS for the U-joints I replaced them then also,Ihave added trim to the 270 and run it hard with the thing trimmed to the moon some times and they also look like new with 400hp in front .thats my experience with my 270+e-drive.

Craig
04-25-2003, 06:57 AM
Thanks for the help guys. I'll put it to good use ASAP. Now one more; where's the best place to buy this stuff. I've seen some extreme prices for Volvo U-Joints, bellows, bearing stuff, etc.

Aftermarket Marine had good prices on some stuff, but not sure they had everything for these older drives.

Ralph Savarese
04-25-2003, 07:24 AM
Craig,
Remember you don't have to buy Volvo bearings Get the numbers off old ones the bearings and seals will cross over to automotive BCA bearings,and National seals. Check out www.basicpower.com (http://www.basicpower.com) for u jount seal kits and u jounts cheep.
Ralph

BillG
04-25-2003, 08:02 AM
Craig,
Buy a Volvo boot for the universals. I purchased an off brand from Basic Power 2 years ago and it lasted 2 years and then leaked. The new one was a Volvo part and believe me there is no comparison. It fits tighter and tells you which side is up. The off brand was so loose it almost could not be clamped properly. The u-joints are Chrysler auto also so you can save there.
Bill G