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Bryan Tuvell
06-11-2001, 11:50 AM
I had a brake line fitting loose, I lost all my fluid, that is tight but now I need to bleed, (don't I) the bleeder bolts won't budge, (saltwater).

Should I try to heat them? Or is there a kit which priveds the piece the line goes into the hub and bleeder plug?

Bryan

BigGrizzly
06-11-2001, 07:29 PM
If there rusted you may already have water in them. Replace the breaks if necessary. If your going to AC do it you need breaks, your Jeep is good but not that good. I own onr too.

Randy

Bryan Tuvell
06-11-2001, 09:00 PM
Thanks Randy, after surfing a bunch an reading a whole bunch, I believe a full replacement is in order. I fixed the leak at the T junction, but cannot bleed due to corrosion, the nipple is shot.

So all brand new is the plan, I posted this a.m. when I thought I could get them loose to bleed the lines.
On a positive note I did rewire the entire trailer and now all the lights work. Well worth the $14 http://www.donzi.net/ubb/smile.gif
Thanks,
Bryan

STUNG_AGAIN
06-12-2001, 12:39 AM
Bryan, I just went thru all that. Mine were real bad from a lot of use. Before I decided to replace the entire brake assembly I used WD-40, had a beer, then just muscled them off and put new ones on. Then after discovering the condition of the backing plate, shoes etc., I said screw it and bought new galvanized assembly's from Northern's for like $69 a which included everything assembled except the drum. I changed the lines and also replaced the front hitch/reservoir assembly which actually started the whole process in the first place. All in all around $200 in parts...

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"...we sleep safely in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those that would harm us..."

[This message has been edited by STUNG_AGAIN (edited 06-12-2001).]

[This message has been edited by STUNG_AGAIN (edited 06-14-2001).]

Bryan Tuvell
06-12-2001, 10:40 AM
I purched 2 new units, , $112 bucksI think I can reuse the drums, I will know once I dive into this job. The trailer shop is only five minutes away, thank goodness.

Any tips or words of wisdom?

Bryan

RickR
06-12-2001, 11:10 AM
Bryan
Replace all your connectors with bare crimp connectors and adhesive lined heat shrink.

Use Castrol Dot 4 LMA (Low Moisture Activity)

Corrosion-X works great on metal parts to prevent corrosion. (I fish in salt water) www.corrosionx.com (http://www.corrosionx.com)


I have not had much luck with drum brakes especially in salt water.
On the new Rolls I went with disc. Only time will tell http://www.donzi.net/ubb/biggrin.gif

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RICKR
mailto:riggerb@aol.comriggerb@aol.com</A>

[This message has been edited by RickR (edited 06-12-2001).]

Bryan Tuvell
06-12-2001, 01:22 PM
RickR, thanks for the tip, neat link, I emailed them asking for a retailer near me, I could use some of their heavy duty stuff.

I considered switching to disc, but thought the wiring of the backup release to my new Grand Cherokee might be questionable. I looked at new discs for $235 including hoses.

I will go with this for now, and I am sure my next trailer will have discs, seems all the new stuff does.
Bryan

RickR
06-12-2001, 04:27 PM
The regular (red can) Corrosion-X is sooo good I've never tried the heavy duty (green can).
You can order direct by phoning. Shipping is around $8 for 3 cans but if your near the coast you should be able to find it.

For future reference, the back-up valve fits behind the actuator with a single wire to your back up lights. It's not necessary unless you back uphill. I've never used mine.

West Marine has the heat shring available. The 4' tube is the best value. I use 1.25" of 3/16" for each connection.

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RICKR
mailto:riggerb@aol.comriggerb@aol.com</A>

[This message has been edited by RickR (edited 06-12-2001).]

EricG
06-12-2001, 04:52 PM
RickR - do you have electric Disks, or Surge?

On the new trailer I just bought with Surge disk brakes, if I don't activate the backup valve circuit on my brakes - it will not move backwards at all, the brake's just lock. It's not that bad since I've got my truck setup for it, but I cannot pull with my Dad's big ford anymore, because we haven't wired his for the backup lights....

Just wondering....

EG


[This message has been edited by EricG (edited 06-12-2001).]

RickR
06-12-2001, 05:05 PM
Eric
They are Rolls' Disc w/surge. Dan (Rolls) uses a custom pad w/no metal. I've never had a lock up. The trailer is a tandem which might have less rolling resistance.

If you have the Dico type surge brakes, try installing a 4"x 9/16 bolt through the arms near the hitch when you need to back up. That should prevent the surge form actuating.

I have my back up light lead wired, in case I ever need it

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RICKR
mailto:riggerb@aol.comriggerb@aol.com</A>

[This message has been edited by RickR (edited 06-12-2001).]

BigGrizzly
06-12-2001, 06:37 PM
Bryan I have switched to stainless disks on my trailer, big difference in breaking. I will never go back. Iused tie down breaks. I've heard all the negitives with tie down but this is bull. I have about 4000 miles on them and no problems. They are good for salt because they are stainless with powercoted calapers. They are self adjusting, which I bet you havn't adjusted yours. They are easy to install. and the back up relay can be done manually. Both my son and I do it manuslly. Only matters backing up a hill anyway ,no problem on level ground.

Randy

RickR
06-12-2001, 08:24 PM
Scott
Do I need to use the relay? I just hooked up a lead off of the backup lights.

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RICKR
mailto:riggerb@aol.comriggerb@aol.com</A>

roadtrip2
06-12-2001, 09:02 PM
Had a Cummins Dually when we got the new Classic in September. We wired the reverse release into the reverse lights on the dually and it worked fine. Got the Excursion in November and had to do nothing due to the wiring already being complete with the hookup on the Super Duty series. Both ways work. Been there done that...

Bryan Tuvell
06-12-2001, 09:38 PM
Great info, thanks. All I know is my two buds with new disc/trailers could not budge without the addition of the manual wiring to allow backing, hill or not.

I bought all new today, and will have my buddy help me Saturday. He also believes my other axle has bearing buddy problems because the grease nipples do not point straight out. And two won't take lube. http://www.donzi.net/ubb/frown.gif Lucky for me he is an old salt and knows his sXXt. From here on out after I flush the engine, I will spray off the brakes from the back side...... my learning continues, I am just a few dollars poorer today than I was when I woke up this a.m. http://www.donzi.net/ubb/smile.gif
Bryan



[This message has been edited by Bryan Tuvell (edited 06-12-2001).]

Bryan Tuvell
06-16-2001, 05:38 PM
Well, new assembly's are on, drums looked like new.
I needed to replace the hose from one side (t-fitting) to another, thing is, you need the whole kit, so another $30....
So they work great, they have never been right knowing what I know now! They lock up when the ABS kicks in.
I still have about 1/8 inch play in the hitch piston, so my plan is to break these new brakes in the next two weeks then read adjust the star on each wheel.
Thanks for all the advice.
Oh, and the flush kit will come on my next rainy weekend. Yes the above was done in four hours of solid rain (Allison)..... dedication...

ALSO, after the tighten the star wheel until the hub is hard to turn, then back off five clicks, she still turns a bit hard by hand?
THOUGHTS?

STUNG and DONZIMAN, see ya early tomorrow. We are launching about 9a.m.
Bryan



[This message has been edited by Bryan Tuvell (edited 06-16-2001).]

Blewbyu
06-17-2001, 03:27 AM
Late thought-"Anything you want to take apart again that comes in contact with salt water,should have Vaseline on it"........
per U.S.Navy,who rates it #1 salt water resistant lubricant.1999 test of 37 lubricants.

AVickers
06-17-2001, 11:59 AM
There is a way to bleed brakes without functional nipples...

1) Remove the shoes and boots to get clear access to one end of the cylinder.

2) Slide a thin feeler gauge in the end of the cylinder to lift the lip of the cup. This can be done using a fine wire without the ram in place if you are very careful not to upset the cup in the cylinder bore -- I've had better results using a feeler gauge, but have used the wire. Make sure the feeler gauge is inserted at the top of the cylinder so that all the air will be ejected.

3) Gently apply pressure at the master cylinder to force fluid into the wheel cylinder. Air will bleed off around the feeler gauge.

My first MG (a TC) didn't have nipples and this was a standard practice.

Bryan Tuvell
06-17-2001, 08:04 PM
Thanks for the tips, the trailer did a great job today, 8 miles, the rims were warm to the touch, I will take another click out of the cylinder tomorrow.

Thanks again.
Bryan