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PaulO
12-11-2001, 04:05 PM
I need to make transom tie bars and have found that they now make stainless welding rods to be used in AC or DC stick welders without the need for shielding gas. I have done lots of mild steel welding with stick and wire-feed but, I have not done any stainless. Any of you guys out there have any experience with this? Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks,
PaulO

2biguns
12-11-2001, 04:09 PM
My little sister's husband's brother (well, ok, my sister's brother-in-law) does stainless welding for a living (they do rails and decor for malls and office buildings). If you get stuck, e-mail me and I'll get you his number. Good luck.

Steve
scsmith@hiwaay.net

RedDog
12-11-2001, 08:26 PM
No help, but your question took me back almost 20 years when I was a piping engineer and served as the grunt for the craftsmen - i.e., the welders. They would make a double butted sch 80 or 160 stainless (SA304/SA316)joint and make it look like art. X-ray QC. But it was a shielded gas process...

I'll pull out my old text book and see if I have anything of use and let you know.

marcdups
12-11-2001, 08:54 PM
Paul, back in the days I used to weld stainless with an arc welder, rod quality had to match steel, ie; 304 with 304 rods 316 with 316, ain't done it in a while but works out great, with 304 for example welds seemed to corrode faster than material any how on a boat i would stick with 316 or better.

My 0.2 cents

Towel boy

BigGrizzly
12-11-2001, 09:15 PM
I've done some with my wire feed and Argon gas. it was like welding mild steel. I was surprised how well I did and how strong the weld was. After all the bo ha I was given. However I f I were to have it really pretty I would have a friend Heli arc it.

Randy

ALLAN BROWN
12-12-2001, 07:10 AM
If you are an average stick welder, you'll be a pro with ss rod. It is easy!

AB

Gary S.
12-29-2001, 11:52 AM
Paul,,,to answer all your questions and if you need help e-mail me...Top quality stainless welds are done DC tig or heli arc period end of subject. Stick welding spots is OK and fairly simple if you have some time under the hood,,,,running any type of stringer or weave is tough to do even for a pro,,,in other words ,,have a grinder,,lots of wheels and a die grinder with a burr. If you do try it,, run it VERY cold,,atleast 15 amps less than the same sized low hydrogen carbon steel rod. It carries a LOT of heat and will run off much quicker than anything you have tried in the past, get scrap and pratice in a vertical position before you attempt to do anything round. You do not have to match grades,,,you can go higher but never lower, and 309 stainless is best used as a transition rod from carbon to stainless. Heli arc set up's are fairly cheap,,,about 100 for a torch and flow meter,,you can rent the argon bottle at most supply houses then pratice pratice pratice,,, As I said any other questions or for help ,,,e-mail me,,,x-ray quality open butt stainless welds are how I make my living,,,,,,Gary

PaulO
12-31-2001, 09:55 AM
Gary,
Thanks for the info. I will be trying this out next couple of days. I'll let you know how it goes.
PaulO

Gary S.
01-02-2002, 01:58 PM
Paul,,I forgot to tell you that the best way to tell if your heat is right with the stainless stick is when it's so cold it's hard to strike an arc and barely keep it lit,,,thats what works the best for me.. And VERY IMPORTANT !!!!!!!! WEAR SAFTEY GLASSES under your hood !!! The slag from stainless pops off the bead and it's like any Lo-Hy slag,,,thick and holds a LOT of heat for a long time. Not fun in the eye !!! By the way thats a good way to tell if your doing it right ,,,when the slag peels and pops your heat and speed are correct,,,,Good luck and let me know how it went,,,Gary

ClassicRazorback
01-02-2002, 06:53 PM
If you use a grinder or a wire brush on iron and then brush or grind the stainless with it the stainless will rust so get new brush and wheel and just use it with ss.
chris

PaulO
01-03-2002, 04:38 PM
Gary, your advice was dead on! Low heat worked much better and the slag is a pain. Even when cooled it is a lot tougher than "normal" slag. I welded some 1" round stock to flat stock and that went well and came out pretty neat. Then I butted the round stock at an angle to flat in a really hard to get to spot and that came out real messy. Need to do some grinding on that. Thanks for the tips Gary. And Chris, thanks for the wire wheel tip also. Now, what do you guys think about plasma cutters for home use?
PaulO

Gary S.
01-04-2002, 01:51 PM
Hi Paul,,,,happy to hear I was of some help. One more thing for the next time,,,,if the slag is hard to remove you are traveling too fast, and more than likely undercutting the sides of your weld. Try a practice piece and watch the puddle wash over the side of the bead,,,it should look like waves rolling up on the beach,, It's hard to explain without looking over your shoulder. Give it a shot and just go slow and watch the puddle ,,don't worry about how it will look. And rod angle is super important I try to lead it rather than "push" you can see how it washes better that way especially on the flat,,,,,Gary