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Jamesbon
05-21-2001, 10:11 PM
Fellas,
With the help of an industrial grade DeWalt grinder, a pair of yellow sunglasses, an old t-shirt acting as a respirator, and a couple Mich. Lights, I removed the transom. Next step is decide whether or not to replace the stringers or just "beef up" what's there.

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1229726&a=12610062&p=48936853

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1229726&a=12610062&p=48936861

GEOO
05-22-2001, 05:50 AM
Nate,
You're on your way.
Note: You may want to add two gussets at the bottom of the transom. The old outdrives transfer the torque to the engine mounts. The Arneson put all the torque on the transom. Add gusset or extra glass where the transom meets the bottom of the hull. Especially with the power you'll have!!! Looks like a fun job. What are you using for the new core? GEOO

Scott Pearson
05-22-2001, 06:36 AM
Nate,
It looks like its coming along. Man, am I glad I'm past that point. You will be itchy for days...Then when you think its all done, your grinding more and your itchy again.

FYI, When you fill the old drive hole with glass. Make sure you glue the formica to a piece of 1/2 plywood. This way when the glass starts to cure you wont get any warping.

Keep the pictures coming!

(NJ)Scott

Greg
05-22-2001, 07:14 AM
Nate, that Is exactly what the transom on my boat looks like.

Jamesbon
05-22-2001, 08:18 AM
GEOO, thanks for the "gusset" idea. I definetly will. CDMA mentioned something similar as well, ading gussets to the top of the stringers and the transom to stiffen vertical movement of the transom from the trim ram being mounted up there.

I want to use synthetic material for the new core, but have yet to find something I can "through bolt." I keep hearing that synthetic stuff will "squish" when bolts are torqued down. Is this true? Or what can I use that I can "through bolt" through?

Also, should I make my new transom "piece" bigger than the original? You can see exactly how big the last one was....
That upper trim ram for the ASD will probably put some pressure on the top of the transom which really isn't reinforced, except when attached to the deck lid.

You're right on the money Scott. After a shower last night, I laid down in bed, put my arms to rest and learned just how much glass was still in'em. I'll try a long sleeve shirt tonight. If it wasn't getting so damn hot, I'd use a nylon or vinyl jacket...Oh well, pain and discomfort are only temporary...

How do you get the ply and formica to conform to the roundness of the transom? Use a bunch of screws through the glass or something?

Also, how exactly should I prepare the edges of all the openings in the transom just prior to glassing them in? I recall GEOO's article mentioning "feathering the edges" or something. SHall I put a couple layers of cloth and resin down before actually attaching the new transom material?

Len
05-22-2001, 09:20 AM
Jamesbon, I would use a "spray contact adhesive for laminate". A Wilsonart or Formica product. Sta-Put and 3-M make one as well. Go to a cabinet shop/wholesaler outlet. Spray on laminate and spray on hull, wait a few minutes, apply and press down. I would only use the glue on the hull in a small (1") or so perimeter around the openings as it is sticky stuff and you have to peel it off later. Hold it up to the transom and mark with a pencil the whereabouts of the openings. Lacquer thinner cleans/dissolves the glue nicley or you can buy a "contact adhesive cleaner" at the same place you buy the adhesive. Simply pull the laminate away and spray this stuff down. I would coat the Formica/Wilsonart/Arborite/Nevamar/Pionite/Panelyte etc with a coat of mould release wax on the inside of the openings to assist in the release from the "new" glasswork. Use a gloss laminate instead of matte if possible. Gloss side/colour, against transom. Good luck!

Forrest
05-22-2001, 10:08 AM
Nate, I'm glad to hear that you are using all the Florida Cracker approved safety gear!

I see that you have the good type of motor mounts that are joined together as a one piece unit. That type takes a whole lot of stress off of the stringers. If you can use that setup, the factory stinger job should be fine . . . provided that there is not rot.

Also,

------------------
Forrest

[This message has been edited by Forrest (edited 05-22-2001).]

Scott Pearson
05-22-2001, 10:20 AM
Nate,
Once you have the formica glued to the wood. BTW you can use 1/4 or 1/8 will be fine. Wax the formica and lay it up against the hull. I used screws thru the transom into the Formica and wood.

Also go by Geoo's formula. My transom glass was 1/4. I went out 3 inches from the hole. Paper thin to 1/4. Finish mat, then crushed. then woven, crushed, woven, crushed woven...etc.

Make sure you do this to each hole. If you dont you will see a ring.

(NJ)Scott

jwright
05-22-2001, 04:37 PM
Your pictures are really interesting... I have a 1976 21 GT, someday I may do what you are doing... your pics really give me an idea what I would be in for.
Question...The stiffeners on the chine and transom.. are those original? My boat only has the the two main stringers and frames at each end of the fuel tank. Is you boat newer?
Keep the pics coming!

Greg
05-23-2001, 08:31 AM
Jamesbon, My fiberglass guy told me that when laminating two pieces of wood together, such as transom or stringer supports it is best to mix up some resin and paint the surfaces to be laminated let it soak into the wood and cure and then laminate the two together. he said this gives a stronger bond because the first coat soaks into the wood sealing it and the second does the bonding. He also said they keep a bucket of ice water and a towel and keep wiping themselves off. This closes your pores and keeps the particles from working into you. When done take as cold a shower as you can stand. Good luck.

Jamesbon
05-23-2001, 04:00 PM
Forrest,
Nothing but the best safety equipment for me http://www.donzi.net/ubb/wink.gif

I had that mount welded up about 8-9 years ago. The pads are about shot, so I'll be upgrading that as well. I have a friend who has a friend who has a bunch of the Gil one piece offshore mounts. I think I'll use one of those. As far as the stringers, I have a feeling the wood is gone in between the glass encapsulation around the location of the motor mounts. The stringer looks to be a little "pulled in" where the mount and it's outer plate are bolted together. I really don't want to tear the stringers out, I may add a second one to the outside and a thicker bulkhead in back of the gas tank. I don't know, what do you all think?

jwright,
I assume the stiffeners were placed there by the factory?? But who knows, she's a 1971 and has had a handful of owners. None of which love her as much as I http://www.donzi.net/ubb/biggrin.gif I'll keep the pics coming as long as I know everyone is enjoying them. (I know I love when you guys put new pics out here)

Thanks Greg. Whew! That cold shower thing's kinda rough.....maybe I'll just itch? Last night I wore a long sleeve shirt, that helped tremendously. Guess I'll have to ruin another long sleeve shirt tonight http://www.donzi.net/ubb/frown.gif

Ted Guldemond
05-23-2001, 06:43 PM
My 1970 GT 21 has no stiffeners. Original power was a 351 Cleveland. Perhaps the factory reinforced the hulls differently for higher power options?

Forrest
05-24-2001, 10:25 AM
Nate, I was just thinking. In order to use your ASD-6, which has a 6" drop box, you are probably going to have to lower you engine mounts and inch or two from where they are now. Since both the GIL and your present engine mounting system employ a bar running below the oil pan, you may have difficulty getting the engine low enough. The GIL mounting system is designed to give enough clearance for a big block to have a full-length deep sump oil pan. For that reason, I would suggest checking with GEOO on just how low you will need to remount your engine before proceeding with stringer rebuilding to accommodate the GIL motor mount.

Also, how much does you buddy want for a single engine GIL mount? I could use one for my Hornet II project that I just got back to work on, since I have finished the Magnum repower project. Ain't this stuff fun? http://www.donzi.net/ubb/wink.gif

------------------
Forrest

[This message has been edited by Forrest (edited 05-24-2001).]

jwright
05-24-2001, 11:53 AM
Interesting that a 1970 does not have the stiffeners. James, are there stiffeners on the chine the whole length of the boat?
Thanks!

Jamesbon
05-25-2001, 01:08 PM
jwright,
No, they're only near the engine compartment. I'll try to take a few pics this weekend.

Forrest,
Thanks for the info! I'll check on the Gil mounts this weekend.

[This message has been edited by Jamesbon (edited 05-25-2001).]