H/M edition style water pumps/ electric pumps?

[Moody Blu']

Hi, I have a 1971 H/M (holman and moody) 18 ft classic. I looked in a bunch of marine catalogs and could not find my style water pump for the life of me.
its a jabsco water pump, the owner before me must have put the cover on the pump backwards because the model number is rubbed off from the impeller.
the best way I could describe it is that the middle of the pump is a circle with a tube coming straight out of the top and the bottom has the tube coming straight out of the bottom and bends to the left.
it is a crank driven pump.
there is a plate that bolts to the crank, after the flywheel, and it has the H/M logo on it.

has anyone replaced a pump like this?
I need to replace mine, it leaks from the bearings not the seal.
if you have please point me in the right direction.
SCOTT HELP you have a 68 maybe you know.

oh, one more thing, I have a summit racing catalog and was wondering if a electric water pump would work? I can choose from three different electric pumps, one is from moroso and bolts right where the stock ford pump would bolt to, but its electric and it pumps 19 gallons per minute at $260.
the other two are as follows.
a meziere 35 gallons per minute electric pump at $284(anodized your color choice)

or a CSI 37 gallon per minute electric water pump at $320(anodized your color choice)

both the meziere and csi bolt to the location of the stock pump, but dont form fit like the moroso electric pump.

If anyone can help me find a replacement mechanical jabsco pump LET ME KNOW
If anyone Knows that an electric pump will work good I would appreciate it if you gave me some insight. I am pretty sure the electric will free up some horsepower!
BUT I heard something about corosion or something with certain impellers.

ok so mostly what I asked is does anyone know where I could get a replacement JABSCO mechanical pump that is crank shaft driven.
AND
If it is possible to use an High performance electric pump for salt water.
please let me know.

Thanks in advanced!!!

[Scott Pearson]

Broque,
My orig motor in my 68 was a 289.My boat is all Merc. powered now. Sorry I dont have any old parts left to look at.

I would watch and make sure that all the internal parts are stainless. Did the one you have have all SS parts? If not thats why it went bad.

(NJ)Scott

[Gearhead99]

I don't think you'll find parts. I had one similar on a 18 2+3 I had and couldn't find replacement parts. Had to change pump system completly.

I think you'll find that the electric pump doesn't pump enough water, volumn, for our applications.

[Moody Blu']

Scott, my pump is brass with a rubber impeller, you know a jabsco pump.

so what kind of set up should I go with then if they dont make replacements?

I am still waiting to see if anyone has used an electric pump succesfully, maybe big griz would know?

[Moody Blu']

madpoodle, what big block pump did you replace it with?-I know if I get a big block pump I can cool my headers too!-when I switch to closed cooling-
what year boat do you have?, length??( I think ill look at your registry after I post this)
is it a ford engine?
my assembly has the 6 bolts that most jabsco pumps have. will the big block pump bolt on to that assembly? (holman/moody assembly)I want to switch pumps any how,unless I can rebuild my pump with out worrying about it leaking.

thanks in advanced for the help!

[boldts]

Hey Skyblue,

Give this web site a try. I have the same waterpump on my 69 18' 2+3. I've never had to replace the pump, but the impeller gets changed every couple years. I also hardly ever have mine in salt water living in Ohio. Good luck and let me know what you find out.
http://www.jabsco.com

[MOP]

Just an idea, being an old boat mech I would take the time to look at a couple of other boats with fords and belt driven Jabscos pumps and update your setup to a late easy to find parts pump. You can if you wish go to a higher volume setup.

[Moody Blu']

mad poodle actually the inlet is the side with the bend, and it is casted into the pump design.
I do have a digital camera but I have nowhere to upload the pics to(ftp site)- I use to use aol ftp site, it was easy, but I dont know how to use dos ftp stuff yet.

boltds you have the same pump?

[BigGrizzly]

Stop thats just a Jabsco pump with the outer cover removed and bolted to a plate with a hyfraulic star rubber dampener on it and turned to face the engine pullies. The impellers and seals are easy to get just a bitch to install. However you can just buy a modern day crank driven one from Osco or Overton's. I have done mine twice - once for thr impeller and then again for the seals. Its just like the pulley driven ones but a star deive instead of a pulley. Fix it don't screw with it, this could blow a motor, and or sink your boat. Don't get lazy like you did with the timing , fix it right.

Randy

[boldts]

Broque,

Yes, I have the same pump you have. It attaches to a plate that is bolted to the engine using 4 long bolts with spacers between the engine block and the steel plate that the water pump attaches to using 6 or 8 small screws. This whole section then mates to the engines crank pulley by use of a rubber or hard plastic piece that inter-locks with the crank pulley. I also have the curved inlet tube that you mentioned you have. Other than changing the impeller every couple years, it's been a great performer for my SB Ford 302. Like I said, my boat has been run in fresh water most of it's life except for a few brackish water runs. It's nice not to have to pull the merc outdrive apart to replace the water pump impeller since I also have the Volvo 250 outdrive. Mine is due for a looksie at the impeller over the upcoming winter and I'll have to see if I can find where I bought the impeller last time. I believe it was a general marine supply store up in Cleveland. Since I listed the Jabsco web site, I took the opportunity to take a look at it. There was a question section and I sent in a request for updated pump types and the use of big block pumps for better water circulation. I also asked for dealers to buy these parts in my area. I'll see what I get back from them and pass it on to you if you like. Like MadPoodle said, these parts are stocked or orderable by most marine parts stores. I believe a lot of the inboard ski boats use them also.

[Moody Blu']

Boldts, you hit the description of the pump right on the head!
I really appreciate that info, it eases my mind a bit.
boldts would you happen to know what model pump we have?
I would like to buy a bigger pump so in the future I can closed cool my block and my headers.So please, if you find out that we can use a pump with a higher flow LET ME KNOW!! THANKS boldts!!

hey big griz, I set my timing, unfortunately I had to set it twice, because I left the dist bolt loose and the dist spun out of correct timing out in the bay :P.
I set the dist so the boat would hit a peak speed of 51.3 mph (with a passenger-figure 53-54mph just me) after I get the pump right I have to move on to calibrating my carbureator and prop selection! I have a feeling that my prop is no where near what most of you guys are running, my boat practically jumps out of the water and if you throttle it to hard on plane it cavitates
It sounds like it is too torquey, anyone know of a place in NJ that lets you test props before you buy??
LAter!

[Moody Blu']

oh one more thing whats the difference between half cam and full cam water pumps?

[Moody Blu']

Any luck finding the model number out on that pump???
or a rebuild kit?
how bout a bigger pump??

[Moody Blu']

I guess no one knows the model # of the pump that is described in this topic??
I am sol then :(

[Forrest]

Hay, someone give this man another star! He's trying like hell to get his problem resolved.

Basic Power in NC (http://www.basicpower.com) stocks all sorts and brands of crank driven pumps and they usually have the best price as well.

[Moody Blu']

ok, I have tried to figure out the model number of my pump and I CANT!!!!!

this is driving me crazy my engine compartment gets sprayed with salt water(mist) everytime i run my boat, I have gone through 5 cans of wd-40 to try to keep the corrosion down until I figure out the model# of the pump, is this enough greif?
HELP!!!

[boldts]

Broque,

Sorry man, comming back from vacation, work is keeping very busy. I got a call at home from a man at Jabsco wanting to know more about what I have in the boat now and what I'm after in a new pump. Being busy at work, I didn't get a chance to call him back today, but I'll try to do it tomorrow. Main issues has I remember are: What pump model is in our boats now? What is a half cam pump vs a full cam pump? Can we use a Big Block pump for better cooling and circulation? Does larger pump fit into our exsisting setups from HM? Dealer list where pumps and parts are available?I'll list the phone number here in case anyone else has interest in talking to the company.

Doug Nell - ITT Jabsco - 949-609-5106

[mattyboy]

Broque,
I have a similiar set up 351w h/m will see if
I can get my fat head in the engine compartment past the risers to get a model number off my pump also have an extra impellor still in package maybe that will shed some light,

Matt
if i don't post in a week come get me i'm stuck

[Moody Blu']

Yes!!!!
let meknow the outcome of the talking to this guy, and if he tells you you can use a bigger pump with our setup give me the model of that pump, and our stock pumps.

I figured something out,
the h/m setup has collars(2-3inch piped spacers with a metal plate on the end which holds the pump on to the crank shaft) if the bigger pump happens to be bigger, it MIGHT WORK, you may just have to put LONGER COLLARS inplace of the stock collars. does this make sense to you?

[Moody Blu']

thanks matt!! let meknow, all the help I can get is greatly appreciated!

[boldts]

All right everyone, here is what I found out from Doug at ITT Jabsco today. Model number or impeller number is needed to determine the pump you are currently using. However, HM ordered pump number 11850 in 1969 and that probably did not change while they were installing their packages. I will go out and look at mine tonight to confirm that #. Bigger is not better although everyone thinks that is the case. Pumps supply so many gallons per minute at 3000 RPM. If the pump is driven by the crank as in our cases, the model listed above pumps 21 gal. per min. @ 3000 RPM. If the pump is driven by a belt coming off the crank pulley that number remains the same, but if the pump is driven by a belt coming off the cam shaft, that gallon output drops in half. Not sure what he was talking about because I have not seen a water pump driven by a cam shaft unless he was reffering to a set-up like whats used in our automobiles. If you decide to run a Closed Water System on your boat or anything else for that matter, the company who builds the system will either include the correct pump for the system or tell you how many gallons per minute at 3000 RPMs are required. Again, back to the more is not better aspect of engine cooling. Gallons needed per minute is also determined by the horsepower of the engine being used. If you tell Jabsco you are running a 1000 HP engine in your boat, they will recomend a different size pump than what they would recommend for a 300 HP engine. Doug also suggested having the model number tag which should be attached by one of the small screws on the HM used plate that the pump mounts to, bead blasted. He said there would be no problem reading the tag. Only precaution, this tag is brass and to much or to hard might mess up whatever was on the tag due to the soft nature of brass. I know this tag is on my application, so again, I'll take a look tonight. As far as mounting a larger pump if in deed a larger pump is needed, the plate that is currently being used will need to be trashed and a new one made because the bolt circle for a larger capacity pump will not be the same as your current pump. In other words, if the pump you are using has the recomended gallons per minute for your engine, I wouldn't change anything unless you just need a new pump of the same make and model.Doug said to e-mail or call him at anytime if there is anything you still need to know. I would assume if a Closed System were bought, it would also come with the brackets needed to mount the pump used. Not sure and sorry, but I forgot to ask if Jabsco supplied brackets for mounting their pumps. I hope all this is understandable. I learned quite a bit myself doing this research and the gentleman at Jabsco was willing to do whatever he could to help answer our questions.

[Moody Blu']

sweet,my h/m plate is in perfect condition, I didnt know that the numbers on it where the jabsco pump model#
ok so if our pump pumps out 21gallons per minute then, why cant I use an electric water pump and free up some horsepower, the pumps I mentioned actually pump more water then our pumps, and cost about the same!

someone tell me why I shouldnt just buy an electric water pump??
here are the specs once again

csi water pump:37 gpm stainless shaft,aluminum impeller, which cost 8 bucks to replace.o ring seals one year warranty

meziere water pump: 35 gpm 2000 hour seal life expectancy

moroso water pump:21 percent more than a stock ford pump (whatever that means)

im looking at the top two pumps, the csi has a one year waranty on it.
I need a good reason why I shouldnt use the electric pump.
HELP

[Moody Blu']

???
I guess no one can really say anything bad about electric pumps???

[BigGrizzly]

No one can say anything bad about electric water pumps-- That was mentioned twice and you missed it. Only drag race guys them. No one uses them in boats because they don't pump enough and also they tax your electrical system. Stop trying to reinvent the wheel and fix your boat the way it was inteneed.

Randy

[Forrest]

Broque, listen to the bear! He knows his stuff. He's been there, done that. He only posts here because he gives a **** about Donzi owners.

Also, how long do think one of those electric pumps drag-race pumps made of billett aluminum will last with raw water running through it? Try about two seasons in fresh and a bout a half a season in salt.

More stars for the Bear! :D

[boldts]

Crawled into my engine compartment. Man is it tight in there and I'm only 5'6". Anyway, the tag that is screwed on the front of my plate is a brass "How to drain the water out of the pump for winterazation." I'll keep digging for my invoice on the last impeller buy. I am not going to pull the waterpump until this winter when no boating is going on. As for the electric pump, if it was a good idea to use one in the marine application, don't you think everyone would be designing their cooling systems with one? Most racers usually have tried and tested methods to their actions. If companys like Fountain, Cigarette, and Donzi are not using them on their boats, there must be a reason! You might try a post on the web site www.offshoreonly.com (http://www.offshoreonly.com) and ask those guys if anyone is using an electric pump, but I really don't think anyone here is out to keep you from gaining HP. :)

[Moody Blu']

you are all right, I a.ways push things a bit too far, but then I realize the right outcome of this and that is to get that crankshaft pump that boldts is looking for the model # for, I'll be witing for it. or did you say the model of the pump already?? hmmm, ill go look.

Oh by the way, I met up with Frank c, and jp breshia we met at the waters edge, and hung out all day, blasting around barnegat bay in 4-6ft waves,(what a beating on my poor muscles).
Stay tuned for more about our little meeting up,, hopefully we got some really good pic of both classics flying in the bay!
until then.......
ill be waiting on the model # :)

[Rootsy]

Sky Blue,

electric water pumps used in drag racing are not intended for continuous duty use. we run this setup on the camaro and the only time it gets used is a bit in the staging lanes and after a run... the motors used are NOT for continuous use, they do not have the necessary service factor... you will burn them up. You don't see circle track guys running electric water pumps...

As for more is not always better... there is such a thing as ADEQUATE!... It only takes so much fluid flow to adequately remove the heat generated by a motor... it takes a given pressure drop ie energy to move a certain amount of coolant through a given size passage of given length. Increase the flow and you increase the amount of power required to turn the pump... ALSO fluid temperature, density and velocity all play a HUGE part in cooling. More flow = more fluid stream velocity... It is the same as the anology of wind chill. water can only absorb so much energy (heat) in a certain amount of time at a given velocity and it only needs to absorb so much in a motor, way less than it is capable of really... you run a thermostat to maintain a certain temperature, essentially choking off flow... most pumps flow MORE than enough coolant to cool a motor and if you let it flow freely, unrestricted, it will make a motor run TOO cold. Therefore size a pump that will flow adequately for your needs... the engineers who put these motors together weren't dummies and they've worked just fine for years as they came from the factory... a 1000 hp motor generates more heat than a 300 hp motor... and thus requires a larger pump for greater flow and resulting heat transfer... there's no need to go to a larger pump unless you have trouble cooling with what you are currently running because of a modified motor... i can see i've been doing way too much fluid dynamics and heat transfer crap at work lately... someone shoot me now please..

[boldts]

Broque,

Jabsco said that Holman Moody used the pump # 11850 in 1969. I'm assuming since that is the only one they bought, it must have been adequite for all there small block Ford installations. I wouldn't think that would change while H/M was applying their package to the engines. As I mentioned in an earlier post, the brass plate attached to the front of the Holman Moody plate that the water pump is screwed on to, is instructions to empty my pump of water for winterazation. In order to get the number off the pump itself will require me to remove it and I'm not going to do that until over the winter when I do an annual inspection of the impeller. Give Doug at Jabsco a call or pull the pump out and take it to a marine parts store like I did the first time I needed an impeller. They have the manuals with all the part numbers and pictures to compare what you have with what was made by Jabsco. I realize you don't want to stop boating, but throwing salt water all over your engine can't be healthy for it and the parts on it.

[Moody Blu']

I had the pump off of it today because I had to change the alternator belt.
thanks for the help guys.Ill start with the model # and figure out something from there.

jaroot, the reason I wanted to go to a larger water pump now is because, I want to switch the engine to closed cooling VERY soon. If I use the stock style water pump I wont be able to close cool the block AND headers. so what that means is that I will still be replacing my headers every few years. If I get closed coling I want the whole kit and caboodle to be cooled by fresh water. :)
Unless someone knows of someone who has a complete closed cooling system on a ford let me know.Id like to know what therre setup is.

[BigGrizzly]

I use the same pump it puts out 32-> 44 gpm. I have over 400 HP in my Corsican with a 351 Ford Clevland and have no problem. The stock pump is no problem. If a problem exhiste it would be the size of the heat exchanger. If tghe pump cools with raw water it will cool with a hear exchanger.

Randy

[mattyboy]

sky,
here-is-the-deal,-besides-the-space-bar-n/w-on-my-pc.short-little-fat-irish-kids-don't-fit-in-a-16-engine-compartment-couldn't-get-in-to-read-anything-but-in-my-hands-besides-a-col d-one-is-a-factory-wrapped-jabsco-impellor-it-reads-impellor-kit-fits-pump-models:1673-0003,
1673-9003,1673-1003,
my-info-68-16-351h/m
sorry-but-when-you-buy-your-suits-from-the-same-guy-who-makes-your-boat-covers,the-engine-hatch-on-a-16-is-way-too-tight-
hope-this-helps-

Matt
looking-for-mr.-spacebar :eek:

[Moody Blu']

hey,
big grizzzly do you have closed cooling on the corsican?
If so can you give me the model number for your heat exchanger?
and over flow bottle?
If you could hook me up with the model numbers and brand names of those items, I think I would be able to make my own closed cooling system,right?.....or did I miss an important part of a closed cooling system(besides hoses and clamps)?

Bg, do you use the jabsco unit to pump the fresh water through the block and headers?
or through the heat exchanger?

now, the rest, the jabsco pump model# IS 11850-0711(clock wise rotation)
same pump as the 11850-0712 but the cam is on the other side(counter clock wise rotation).
I called up boats u.s. and they told me the pump was :eek: $467.21 :eek: and it was special order and would take 2weeks :rolleyes:
that kind of pissed me off :mad:
so I was about to order it and then I said, "Ill call you back in a minute I have to check something out real quick"
I hung up the phone called jabsco back and used ext#275 and said,"Hey doug, would you happen to know any distributors that sell that water pump at a reasonable price?" and doug said, "ummm yeah hold on a sec....800-445-1656...(they also rebuild old pumps too)(I will rebuild mine later on) these guys are real cheap and all they deal in is water pumps and repairs." I said, "thanks!"
So, I called them up I asked," how much for an 11850-0711 jabsco water pump" ,they said," hold on a sec got the book right here....pause for a couple secs..... we dont have that pump in stock but we have the other, counter rotation pump 11850-0712, well switch the cam to the other side" I said ,"oh ok how much was that?"
they said," that comes out to $350.00"
I griningly gave the guy my credit card number I said,"here is my credit card # 5492 4563 2534 9300" he said,"you should see that pump by thursday, but wait arent you a bit crazy telling all those people on the message board your credit card number?" I said," YEAH"

so I saved my self about $117 and a couple more days of salt water hazing my engine compartment.
MAN did I go through Alot of WD-40
engine still looks good :D

I also bought a hood scoop for it
;) my carb protudes through the motor cover. when it would rain, the cover I used(a towel and a plastic lamp shade) would always let water leak on to the intake.SO I would have little puddles in my intake which I had to soak up with a towel and then spray MORE wd-40 on the intake.
THANK GOD MY SCOOP IS COMING!
Besides, now that I have the hood scoop coming, it makes me want to get a super charger that much more! :D
I think I need to work on my prop before I go crazy and buy a charger.
the prop on my boat is probably like a 18 pitch, I jump out of the whole really fast, that is really hurting my top end, im going 52.1 @4800-5000 rpms . now that I got all the stuff I need to make the boat solid(besides a drive), I can start to play with props now.

I bet no ones reads all the jabbering I do when Im on this computer. my fingers are to damn fast for there own good!!
If any of you ever met me ,I would say ,you would think ,I am a space cadet. BUT HEY Im a donzi feak like yourselfs, thats why we get along!
Im done jabbering!
hope the numbers and stuff helps anyone looking for water pump parts!
:cool:

[BigGrizzly]

In earlier post I told you I have cloaed colling systema for all my boats. I had Sen-Dur make the heat exchangers for them. Right now my Criterion (Supercharged 502) heat exchanger is on loan to a high performance engine builder to see if it will keep a Off shore race engine stable.
If you are really going to supercharge that 351 Thoes Polished shotpeened rods won't do. You need better rods. When supercharging you need a larger heat exchanger than normal. I had hours I could explain why. Take my word for it I have been doing this a long time.

Randy

[Moody Blu']

BG, ok so what size and model#(or dimensions)
heat exchanger should I use, with a normally aspirated 351w ( I want to cool the headers too)-ill worry about the supercharger later on-
what size/brand of overflow bottle should I use?
if you could tell me what model/size parts I would need to make a complete closed cooling system (based off one of your closed cooling systems) I would appreciate it.
I dont know where to start if I called up some closed cooling company and asked them how I could set my engine up so the block and headers could be closed cooled.
everytime I try to call they tell me I cant do it, but I know I can with the right parts.( I think they sythat because they never really made modified/experimental stuff) a so please help a fellow donzi owner out big grizzly.

oh I forgot to say the rods were magna fluxed too. I may turbo charge it instead if a SC is to much.
I need a drive before I can even think about a super charger

[BigGrizzly]

Yes the exhaust can be done they call it a full system. the system without the exhaust is called a half system. Companies have thermo engineers th do the design work for you. You need to know the horsepower of the engine and cid.
I assumed you maged thr rods . The fact is they are too week for that kind of power. No one makes a marine turbocharger for that engine that you could afford. It has too much heat for your boat and will blister the hatches.
My engine is custom built for me by me. I spent years to get it where I'm satisfied with it. Your going to have call Sen-Dur your self. I can guide you but won't do it for you. One other option is get one for a 454 chevy and bolt it on. My Corsican customed exchanger and surge tank retailed over $1,200. Mine will hold a 195 temp at 5,600rpm for as long as hold the throttle on, so far that is 37 minutes on the water. I have stainless steel CMI hedders and don,t cool them with the exchanger- engine compartment gets too hot. Salt has no effect on them at all.
Osco also has closed systems. At this point I wouldn't cool the exhaust with the closed system. Grt your boat running right before you mess with it.

Randy

[Moody Blu']

so big grizzly, what your saying is that I should buy a full closed cooling system for a 454 and install it on my 351w engine?
I guess i could just cool the engine.
do you think I would be able to cool the whole engine with a 454 kit? without excessive engine cabin temperature?


hey bg, you havent given me any phone numbers so I can call someone to buy a kit or parts.
I dont want you to install the kit I definately want you to guide me though, ill install it though. could you recomend a dealer that has good service?

by the way the engine is running perfect.
I am getting 4800-5000 @52.1 mph (my tach gauge isnt installed yet)
I remmeber you saying that my boat is really slow for the engine specs and all the other stuff I said about it.
I have come to the decision along with frank c and jp b that I need a new ss prop pitched at 22-24, Im gonna see if the local propeller shop will let me test a couple different props if I leave a hefty deposit.

Bg my boat jumps out the water faster than any other donzi ive seen.(im not slamming the throttle down either) got the pump got the hoodscoop looking for the prop now, then next year ill have to go out and buy another prop for the new drive, what a way to waste money ehh?

[longhorn24]

I've tried to read most of the threads on water pump issues and haven't seen anyone having issues with their's vibrating.

I have a 1970 16' with an HM 302. The water pump is a Johnson Pump with the serial numbers on the cover F5B-9 10-24228-1 0111. It looks essentially the same as this pump

http://www.marineparts.com/partspages/JABSCO/jab1.htm

The pump is pushing water through the engine great, but it is visibly vibrating a fair amount and is making enough noise that you definitely hear it over the engine/exhaust.

The pump had pushed the stabilizer arm that runs to the stringer down so that is was not flush against the pump, and it rubbed down some of the brass fitting that the fits the pump to the arm.

I've tightened/bent the stabilizer arm so that it is snug against the pump and put in a temporary bushing to cushion it. It seems like now when we run the engine, the pump vibrates less, but it's even louder. All the bolts that secure the pump to the engine seem tight.

The engine did have a water intake issue last season and burned up an impeller. We've taken the engine apart and fixed (we thought) the problems related to that. The impeller in the pump is new. Any ideas what's going on here and what I'm going to have to do to make it right?

thanks for any help

[BigGrizzly]

That is not a H&M pump it is a normal crank driven pump. The reason it vibrates is the holes in the pump are made for a shoulder bolt or bushings to center it. The up side there are thousands of these pumps in operation vibrating and not causing any problems and the pump is not expensive in comparison

[longhorn24]

Are you saying that I'm probably OK to leave it as is, and let it keep vibrating?

Would putting new bolts in possibly lessen the vibration?

Sorry for the stupid questions, just don't want to have the pump give out on me in the middle of the lake.

[gcarter]

Are you saying that I'm probably OK to leave it as is, and let it keep vibrating?

Would putting new bolts in possibly lessen the vibration?

Sorry for the stupid questions, just don't want to have the pump give out on me in the middle of the lake.
The axis (the centerline of the pump shaft) is not perpendicular to the face of the front crankshaft pulley hub.
Either the mounting bolts are too small and allowing the pump to run off center, or the pump bolt flange isn't pulled down tight.
Some times the pump flange sits in a recess in the crankshaft hub and in your case, it may not be centered up in that recess. Sometimes there's paint or dirt in the recess that doesn't allow the pump flange to bolt up properly.
I would remove the pump and inspect the the pump flange, make sure the pump flange is clean along with the face of the crankshaft hub. Make sure any crankshaft hub recess is clean.
Find some bolts that fit the pump flange holes pretty tightly.
If all this fails, maybe the pump input shaft is bent, but unlikely.

[mphatc]

I have the same situation on my new water pump, mounted inside a billet front crank pully from March Performance. I had a centering ring machined to align the pump hub and the crank pulley, but still have wobble in the pump. After 3 attempts to eliminate the wobble we dicided it was a built in design flaw in the pump and we couldn't make it go away . . .

It hasn't caused any problems in 65 hrs of run time . . .

Mario L

1969 Corsican
1968 Magnum 27

[mattyboy]

my crack driven pump was pretty solid, it was mouted to a rectangular plate that had 4 bolts and spacers that bolted into the fron of the motor the pump had about 8 screws in it holding it to the plate, one of the four bolts also doubled as the top bolt for the alt.

[BUIZILLA]

my crack driven pump was pretty solid,
that's what they have toilet paper for :toiletpap